Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-33272-1288681944_thumb.jpgpost-33272-1288682060_thumb.jpgpost-6399-1125464280.jpgseries 1 1993 r33gtst nissan skyline. i have owned this car for approximately 4 years. During this time it has been mechanically perfect, i have added and upgraded performance parts in the quest for 250 + kw aiming for a nice streetable import however priorities have changed now and unfortunately it is time to let her go , it has:

series 2 rear spoiler

3'' xforce turbo back exhaust system

front mount intercooler

HKS GT-RS turbo kit

18'' advanti racing alloys

saber boost guage

gizzmo boost controller

spitfire coil packs

tomei fuel pump

excedy heavy duty clutch

mongoose alarm system

gates performance timing belt installed at 140,000kms

brand new battery fitted a week ago

sony head unit, one sony 250 watt amp and one fusion 250 watt amp mounted in the boot

the car will also come with an apexi fc computer however it has been removed from the car as i am advised it needs the hand controller to tune it. (the stock computer is running the car at the moment)

As stated the car has been mechanically perfect however there are a few minor cosmetic flaws, I will try to describe them as best i can. some of the paint on the roof and bonnet is starting to look a little faded the front rhs quarter panel has a dent in it where someone hit the car in a parking lot ( i will supply another mostly undamaged one with the car) there is a small tear on the drivers side seat easily covered by a seat cover, the boot scuff plate was missing when i bought it. i bought another one however it turned out to be a series 2 one and doesn't fit (i will include it in the sale if requested) and the rear rhs plastic mud guard has a crack. The air-conditioning also needs a regas. These things are mostly unnoticeable and easily fixed.

The current registration expires on the 24th of november. The car will be sold un-registered .i have asked my mechanic to have a quick look over the car and he said all it needs for RWC is 3 new tyres.

the car can be picked up from the coorparoo area brisbane, with payment at the time of pickup.

i am happy to answer any questions or arrange an inspection either through the site or on 0424634439

need it gone!

for some reason i can only post these 3 photos at the moment will try again later.

post-33272-1288682104_thumb.jpg

Edited by roy33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342774-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

tidy for the price.... what is the compression like in the motor? is it all good?

[/q

i checked the compression about a year ago just out of curiosity and it showed a consistent reading of 150- 148psi from memory across all cylinders, can't be sure on exact figures i know i was pleasantly suprised though. the car has been serviced every 5-10 thousand kms and looked after mechnically with the best of oils etc. i only run bp ultimate 98 in it. i drive the car to and from work every day and have done for the last 3-4 years. the HKS GT-RS turbo was brought brand new from nengun and is about 15-20,000 kays old and is perfect.

the only flaws are cosmetic and as stated easily fixed.

I'm picking up a brand new nissan navara n friday and really need the skyline gone, i could easily convert the car back to stock and sell all parts seperately and possibly double what i'm asking but just don't have the time!

someone grab a bargain for gods sake!

come have a look.

the car is on ebay aswell.

Edited by roy33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342774-r33-gtst/#findComment-5530407
Share on other sites

What would be involved in getting it registered in South Australia?

Address is Victor Harbour about 80km from the Adelaide city.

Would it just require an ID check or would it need to go thrugh regency?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342774-r33-gtst/#findComment-5530667
Share on other sites

What would be involved in getting it registered in South Australia?

Address is Victor Harbour about 80km from the Adelaide city.

Would it just require an ID check or would it need to go thrugh regency?

sorry mate have no idea might have to get in touch with the south aus transport?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342774-r33-gtst/#findComment-5530784
Share on other sites

What would be involved in getting it registered in South Australia?

Address is Victor Harbour about 80km from the Adelaide city.

Would it just require an ID check or would it need to go thrugh regency?

take everything off thats aftermarket and replace with stock..

ie

Greddy Type S coil overs

HKS Kansai front & rear underbody brace Kit

Cusco tension rods

Cusco front camber arms

Cusco Rear camber arms

Cusco Drag Rods

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342774-r33-gtst/#findComment-5533003
Share on other sites

cooparoo hey im in forest lake.. im keen to check this out.

when are you available tomorrow?

you got a vin number so i can rev's check it .. if its going unregisterd.

Edited by PetroDola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342774-r33-gtst/#findComment-5539381
Share on other sites

cooparoo hey im in forest lake.. im keen to check this out.

when are you available tomorrow?

you got a vin number so i can rev's check it .. if its going unregisterd.

Hey mate I finish work at 5 so any time after that don't have vin number off top of my head but can definately send it through to you when I get home my number is 0439676804, if you wanna call.

Thanks,

Troy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342774-r33-gtst/#findComment-5539855
Share on other sites

seems like an awesome car for the price... would defenitely pay 6g's for it.

If u wanted to keep the car registered in another state just open up a PO box address in that state and then a week or two later forward it onto your current address. This way you can keep it registered in that state and can avoid going to regency.. Not that i am sure you would have to go to regency.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342774-r33-gtst/#findComment-5540281
Share on other sites

Hey mate I finish work at 5 so any time after that don't have vin number off top of my head but can definately send it through to you when I get home my number is 0439676804, if you wanna call.

Thanks,

Troy

hey buddy , ill call you after work.

justed messaged you via mobile , send us your addy ill be over tonight circa 7pm if thats cool.

Edited by PetroDola
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342774-r33-gtst/#findComment-5540294
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...