Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

As per the title, I'm looking for opinions on the GReddy Type S BOV as I'm looking to upgrade from the std R32 BOV to an adjustable recirculating BOV that fits the stock location and I can set to open fully at higher boost (I run 12 & 16psi) as I suspect the std one is leaking. Basically I get an annoying leaking 'whoooshing' sound through my pod filter when I'm accelerating or even just using light throttle to maintain 100ks cruise...I've attempted blocking the small hole next to the piston in the std BOV (as per the associated thread on SAU) but this only helped marginally. Anyone had similar experiences with the std BOV?

Also, I noticed the GReddy Type S BOV has two fittings for vacuum source, as per my attached pic.....I read that the bottom one is only used in some installations, is this also true for Skylines? I want to retain a fairly stock look (to avoid cop attention!!) so it'd be ideal if all vacuum fittings had connected hoses!

Any opinions, experiences or skyline specific install info for the Type S BOV would be appreciated!

thanx!

errr.. isn't the "whoooshing" sound just the sound u get from a pod. I doubt its the BOV leaking... although considering the age of the car it could be the stock bov spring has had its day which would cause it to leak.

Hey predator.....That's what I always thought, this is the first turbo car I've owned but a friend of mine who used to have an R32 reckons his never made the 'whooosh' to the same extent mine does (had same pod as me too)...Also I've driven his new (old!) car - DR30 Skyline turbo @12psi with atmo bov and pod filter and all I heard was engine revving + turbo spool, no whooshing...so nothing at all like mine, this is what makes me assume the BOV may be leaking.

as far as i know the stock BOV will leak after about 10psi

the whoosing will be coming from the POD that is installed on the car. If you are runing that amount of boost definetly go the aftermarket BOV. You should notice the difference and will hold boost a bit better too

my 2cents :D

good bov, fully adjustable so you can set where it lifts.

the second hosetail connector (the one pointing down in your pic) is used to help lift the valve when you have the spring tightened for high boost applications.

It works by plumbing it from in front of the throttle body (the other line connects to the plenum, as per normal) and when you take your foot off, it assists in pushing the valve open.

this allows you to tension the valve up higher than would otherwise be possible if you were using only vacuum to lift it off when the throttle shuts.

hope that makes sense.

Thanks for the response Frosty and for that technical info Steve, that's exactly what I was looking for! A couple of additional questions though - if I was to use the secondary vacuum fitting as you described (ie. from a source in front of the throttle body), would you have any recommendations as to where I could fit the hose into the std intercooler piping? Would it be a case of having to drill/weld in a fitting? And at what stage/boost level would this 'vacuum assistance' be useful?

Thanks!

well I have mine close to the BOV (I have a trust type R). I am not 100% where it would be useful. I plumbed it up after I started running 1.7 bar. I havent re-adjusted my spring tension, but it now lifts off at around 0.4bar, whereas before, it didnt lift until around 1 bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...