Jump to content
SAU Community

Running No Thermostat


Recommended Posts

Guest trikdoutvl

Simple question, will running no thermostat make my rb20 run hotter? I had my car overheat on me and the cultpret was a bung thermostat.. So I pulled it out and now the car runs at around 190-200f. It tends to creep up when I am idelling at the lights. Just wondering if removing the thermostat would have caused that or should I put a new 1 in??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343942-running-no-thermostat/
Share on other sites

Simple question, will running no thermostat make my rb20 run hotter? I had my car overheat on me and the cultpret was a bung thermostat.. So I pulled it out and now the car runs at around 190-200f. It tends to creep up when I am idelling at the lights. Just wondering if removing the thermostat would have caused that or should I put a new 1 in??

I would have thought no thermostat would just mean it takes a lot longer to warm up which isn't a good think, If its a daily I would deffinately put one in..

Buy a thermostat, you probably have a circulation problem now . The thermostat blocks the bypass when it opens up and allows water to flow through the radiator, so hot water is probably recirculating around your block.

Pulling thermostats out only works on old cars.

pulling out a thermostat will cause ur engine to reach full operating temp a lot later meaning more wear and tear. it will not cause it to over heat

put a thermostat back in, if its overheating with a new thermostat in there you have a problem

Guest trikdoutvl

I should of added I had the radiator flushed the same time I took the thermostat out..... My temp gauge is aftermaket and in farenheight.. Is 190-205 normal temp for a 20? It goes up down between idalling and driving. I was thinking of installing thermo fans next.

i noticed in my car it ran much cooler but it can screw with electrics with your EFI, when your ecu depends on water temperature to decide how much fuel it needs to put in when u start car and so it knows when car is warm to convert back to normal map.

thermo's block flow to the radiator until the car warms up, then open to allow it to stay at that temp via radiator cooling. your car overheated cos the thermo was stuck closed causing it to be in the "warm up" stage until cooked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...