Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I'm going to be ordering a wideband O2 in the next 2 weeks and have found a really good price. Only really interested organising it for SA people as people will have to pick them up from me in Campbelltown, that way i don't have to stuff around with postage.

I have read a number of reviews and they are one of the best budget O2 sensor available. Generally they are around $250 mark. They also come with two gauge faces and two bezels so you can set them up to match your other gauges.

you can setup one of the output wires to simulate the factory Nerst cell (factory O2 sensor) signal so you can remove the factory O2 and just use the UEGO signal to control your ECU in closed loop.

Digital Wideband Air / Fuel Gauge

A wideband UEGO sensor controller accurately monitors Air/Fuel ratios (AFR) during the tuning process to prevent a lean fuel mixture, which could lead to engine damage. AEM has combined its single-channel wideband UEGO controller and gauge display into one unit, uniting unsurpassed AFR accuracy and control with an easy-to-read interface. AEM’s Gauge-Type Wideband UEGO Controller features a digital LED display and sweeping LED “needle” that changes colors as AFR changes from rich to lean. The unit’s 52mm (2-1/16”) gauge housing fits in most gauge pods and can be remotely mounted virtually anywhere.

  • Ideal AFR monitoring tool for EFI and carbureted applications, and engine dynamometers
  • Does not oscillate AFR reading like narrow band sensors
  • No laptop required for monitoring!
  • Bosch sensor included
  • Accurate to 0.1 AFR
  • Reads in AFR or Lambda via a switch in back of gauge housing
  • 24 Color-coded LED display lights provide immediate reference to engine’s air/fuel ratio (AFR) or Lambda ratio
  • Integrated three-digit display reveals AFR or Lambda in real time
  • User-programmable 0-5v analog output included for use with data loggers and virtually any engine management system
  • Serial data stream included for output of AFR (RS 232)

aemuegologo.jpg

Edited by heslo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345742-wideband-o2-sensor-aem-uego/
Share on other sites

Seems to be just power and earth is needed, the Sensor just clips in to a loom and if you are going to use the Wide band to simulate the narrow band signal then there is one other wire than need to be wired in, but since your running a GTR you would need two so i would suggest getting the bung welded into the dump where the two front pipes meet.

Here's the manual;

AEM_UEGO_Wide_Band_AFR_Installation_Instructions_30_4100.pdf

Still looking for cheaper prices, it's looking like they will be at or around the $200 mark from Australia. Hearing back from a dealer in the next couple days.

Edited by D_Stirls

Ok Guys i have found a seller in Australia and The price is $200 and the order will be put in at the end of this week or the beginning of next. So if you want to get in on this PM me and i'll send you that bank details.

I would prefer to have people pick them up but if you really need it to be posted i'll put it in an express post bag (which i think is $15).

I found out that the reason the international sellers wouldn't send them overseas was because the warranty only covers the country they are sold in; so if i brought them in from the states they wouldn't have a warranty.

So these have a warranty as they are from an Australian seller.

Ok Guys i have found a seller in Australia and The price is $200 and the order will be put in at the end of this week or the beginning of next. So if you want to get in on this PM me and i'll send you that bank details.

I would prefer to have people pick them up but if you really need it to be posted i'll put it in an express post bag (which i think is $15).

I found out that the reason the international sellers wouldn't send them overseas was because the warranty only covers the country they are sold in; so if i brought them in from the states they wouldn't have a warranty.

So these have a warranty as they are from an Australian seller.

Apparently PM are down for the time being.

Just email me on; [email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...