Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

does anybody have stock parts to replace the HKS hard piping KIT that came in my CAR "see pic"

Car is getting complied at the moment, complance center got the R34 GTR Stock Air Box

but don't have the actual stock piping (bit with the Twin Turbo written on it in a stock GTR)

Plus the stock washer bottle as the Car came with an aftermarket item "see pic"

I am willing to Rent / lease the bits or if you very generous "borrow for a little while" till the car is complied / rego'd and put back to Jap Spec

Location - Brisbane

Kushil

Hard piping Kit

img1554sd.jpg

Washer bottle

img1558y.jpg

I might be able to help with the pipework, how long would you need it for?

Thanks for the reply

i am guessing it would be for around 2 weeks normally, but my car has got a few mods to replace and due to end of year. i would say 3 - 4 weeks

i am happy to pay for you troubles and rent the bits of you and will give a deposit for you peace of mind

compliance is done at ISASO, so it not some unknown doggy place

the shop has asked around too and i only need the stuff if they can not source it. but it looks like they might not be able to

Kushil

  • 3 months later...

Do you still need help with borrowing parts? I need to borrow a stock R34 GTR bonnet for a day.

Simon 0408 766 268

I found all my parts

i am sure you can find Stock GTR bonnet from someone in gold coast

also put request via SAUQLD website

if you really get stuck, i can give you mine "which is black", but i am from tingalpa, which is a bit of a drive from Gold coast for a bonnet

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...