Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi , my name is Chewy Im 21 and I own a RB25DET powered S13.

I ussualy work on my own car and when i come accross a dilema i search for a solution online ussualy, on car forums such as this...or nico,zilvia, nwnissans...ect

Im replacing my clutch/ flywheel. I replaced my oem clutch with a 6 puck clutch and replaced my flywheel with a lighter flywheel. everthing is torqued to specs and ready for my tranny to bolt rite up (so i think..)

Dilema#1; after i replaced those things (clutch/flywheel) i started reading online, everytime you replace your clutch/ flywheel , you should also replace your pilot bearing/bushing. now this is after everthing is already installed and torqued down. i relized that i didnt replace the pilot bearing nor the bushing. is that a problem ? should i be worried? am i ok to continue and bolt the tranny back on? Do you guys think i should unbolt everything, start from the begining and replace those things aswell?

Dilema #2; i noticed after i bolted up everthing that the clutch is in contact with the pressure plate/ flywheel ( like panckakes) everthing looks good but i went to the front of the car and turned the main crank pully and it turns the flywheel. i know the flywheel never stops rotating when the engine is on but when i turned it, it made a friction sound as if the clutch plate(6puck) was too close to it causing friction? it wasnt hard to turn nor was it a harsh sound . i simply need to know if thats normal and if the clutch is always in contact with the flywheel or is it suppose to be free flowing/ spinning without contact?

id like to know what you guys think. im doing this on my own and i wanna do this right the first time. and i dontknow if im taking things to serious so any information regaurding this topic would help.

thnx guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346687-worried-did-i-do-this-right/
Share on other sites

Dilema 1: Are you talking about the Spigot bush and the throwout bearing?. The Spigot bush is the one in the back of your crank where the input shaft for your gearbox sits when its mated to the engine and the throwout bearing is the one that activates your clutch. Sorry just not sure about the terms your using lol, but if that sounds right then...... Spigot bush is probably OK unless you can notice something Odd about it. The throwout bearing I would replace.... Usually clutch kits come with a new throwout bearing?

seen as you havent put the transmission on it wouldnt hurt to change both now while its not to much of an issue. But id Def change the throwout bearing.

Dilema 2: Thats a harder one without seeing and knowing more.... But I think that with the throwout bearing and clutch fork on it will spring the clutch plate out a little. But this one im not so sure about.....

the spigot bearing...i didnt know the exact name ...but i didnt replace it. I did replace the throw out bearing tho. last nite i finished everything up and installed my tranny and fired her up....seems to run great other than one problem.... the pedal seems to feel really mushy and weak. sometimes its pressed in and wont come back up and it wont engage in gear? i did bleed the clutch cilendar.....so i dont know whats goin on? i came accross many threads on diffrent forums and people with similar problems after changing there clutch/ flywheel. people sudjested to bleed the clutch more untill i felt the the diffrence in the pedal, even read that people have bled there clutch system for over an hour to get all the air bubbles out of the system and that worked for them.

but i did notice one thing when installing my new throw out bearing to the shaft of the tranny, i notice that when i pulle the lever all the way down on the side of the tranny the throw out bearing would get stuck on top almost disangaing from its path of travel. but would come back after i pressed it again manually with my hand....so i think my problem has something to do with my throw out bearing getting stuck when pedal if fully pressed to the floor? i did grease the bearing for smooother travel. and i also noticed that after i shut off the car for a while and took it for a drive around the block later that nite that it seemed normal and the problem had dissapeared as if it never happended. but at diffrent times it would do the same thing.....mushy pedal dropping to the floor when fully pressed ,not engaging in gear.... id had to try to put it in gear numerous time before the pedal actually workded.

should i continue to bleed the system and see if it works ? whats a solution for this annoying problem? or does my pedal need to be re adjusted all over again?

It does sound like you have air in your system. Get another person to bleed the clutch while you pump the clutch pedal, and keep doing it until it feels like a properly working hard clutch. Also did you adjust the clutch pedal already? Cause it will most likely need adjustment since your last clutch...

Edited by ichizora

k well this is wierd but i kinda like it hahah, since then ive been driving the car every morining and the issue is no longer relivent. it seemed to vanish. but i never adjusted the pedal...i wouldnt even know how? and i looked under there and where it seems like there would be a spring on the pedal, there isnt any spring......i looked at my brothers s13 and his clutch pedal doesnt have a spring eather. but clutch pedal travel and stiffness is good.

well i hope the clutch problem doesnt come back, but if it does ill try to bleed it again and if it does not work ill update the syntoms its performing.

other than that ,thanks for your replies.

.

theres no spring on any hydraulic clutch pedals that i've seen. the pedal gets pushed back up by the pressure plate.

your issues with a mushy pedal sounds like a hydraulic issue, as said, bleed it all properly and check for leaks if it appears again.

spigot bush should be fine aslong as its not flogged out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...