Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have decided to go with new cams very shortly and I wish to up grade the valve springs as well (for Peace of mind).

After some research I have seen how you can put compressed air into the cylinders to allow removal of the springs with the head still on the car.

I just need to know what tools everyone recommends me to use for doing this.

I found this http://www.toyotool.com/PURCHASE.htm

Which is the correct sizing for the RB20DET?

Has anyone used this before and is it as easy as the video shows?

All help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347257-rb20det-valve-spring-upgrade/
Share on other sites

I'd be very suprised if there is a tool to get the springs out of a skyline head while its on the car. Yes you can put compressed air into the cylinder and hold the valve shut while you wind a clamp like tool up to compress the spring. The problem is with these heads the springs sit down inside and you won't be able to get the clamp down onto the sides of the spring. Any cars that use shim buckets have the same problem.

I ordered a Lisle 36200 valve remover from the US and it should do the job. There is a vid of a using it on a 300zx head and there valve springs postion are similar to those on RB25 dont know about the 20s

I ordered a Lisle 36200 valve remover from the US and it should do the job. There is a vid of a using it on a 300zx head and there valve springs postion are similar to those on RB25 dont know about the 20s

You mean this tool ?

Looks almost identical to the one in my first post.

300ZX and rb20 / ca18 use same valve springs and hydrolic lifters etc so I assume it would be perfect for the RB20.

Edited by RedDrifter

You mean this tool ?

Looks almost identical to the one in my first post.

300ZX and rb20 / ca18 use same valve springs and hydrolic lifters etc so I assume it would be perfect for the RB20.

Yeah thats the one, yeah if its same then should be no probelms. Theres a dozen of these removers all different brands but same design. Mines should be arriving in a couple of days.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...