Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Really need these parts gone guys, I'm moving house soon.

So up for sale are the following items:

1) Full set (5) of Genuine R33 floormats, great condition - $150 ono

76542_177319652280950_123901314289451_627809_584442_n.jpg

75785_177319612280954_123901314289451_627806_3526508_n.jpg

2) Front Swaybar with links $50

74863_177319625614286_123901314289451_627807_4546927_n.jpg

3) Rear Camber arms $40

76856_177319595614289_123901314289451_627805_2280482_n.jpg

4) Castor arms with Nolethane adjustable centres - $80

154845_177319685614280_123901314289451_627812_4531250_n.jpg

5) Airbox with K&N panel filter, all clips, and snorkle $150

75873_177319705614278_123901314289451_627814_7042817_n.jpg

6) Plastic Recirculation pipe that goes under the radiator - $50

155249_177319638947618_123901314289451_627808_6063994_n.jpg

7 ) Oval muffler 3"in, 3" out. Straight through, dent on one side, $30

149814_178084662204449_123901314289451_633204_7181518_n.jpg

8) RB26 cam cover, painted purple, missing a little paint - $50

75679_177319728947609_123901314289451_627816_4196071_n.jpg

9) "drift" gearknob, silver carbon pattern - $30

156126_177319698947612_123901314289451_627813_7357691_n.jpg

10) Genuine "GTR" badge for front grille, few stone chips on the red "R" clips intact - $20

150828_178084548871127_123901314289451_633193_1912620_n.jpg

11) 2 x 275/35/R18 Toyo R888 - bald - good for track days (0.5 seconds faster around Malalla apparently?) or burnouts? $50 - pick up only

12) Factory Lower intercooler rubber hoses $50 for both

155467_178084645537784_123901314289451_633202_7102694_n.jpg

13) Hicas Rack, with tie rods - was working fine - $80

150332_177319662280949_123901314289451_627810_7375097_n.jpg

Last but not least

14) Factory Plastic Air Diversion panel for R33 GTR (Very rare to find these days!) - $100

154414_177319712280944_123901314289451_627815_1545008_n.jpg

149850_177319672280948_123901314289451_627811_2071762_n.jpg

All parts located in Hope Valley SA 5090

Can organise cheap freight at buyer's cost

Will trade/discount for the following items:

Carbon wing blade for R33 GTR

Boot interior clips

400R clear front indicator lense (I only really need 1)

Cheers,

Nigel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348100-floormats-gtr-parts-skid-tyres-etc/
Share on other sites

Floormats and badge sold pending payment

2) Front Swaybar with links $50

3) Rear Camber arms $40

4) Castor arms with Nolethane adjustable centres - $80

5) Airbox with K&N panel filter, all clips, and snorkle $150

6) Plastic Recirculation pipe that goes under the radiator - $50

7) Oval muffler 3"in, 3" out. Straight through, dent on one side, $30

8) RB26 cam cover, painted purple, missing a little paint - $50

9) "drift" gearknob, silver carbon pattern - $30

11) 2 x 275/35/R18 Toyo R888 - bald - good for track days (0.5 seconds faster around Malalla apparently?) or burnouts? $50 - pick up only

12) Factory Lower intercooler rubber hoses $50 for both

13) Hicas Rack, with tie rods - was working fine - $80

14) Factory Plastic Air Diversion panel for R33 GTR (Very rare to find these days!) - $100

154414_177319712280944_123901314289451_627815_1545008_n.jpg

Will trade/discount for the following items:

Carbon wing blade for R33 GTR

Boot interior clips

400R clear front indicator lense (I only really need 1)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...