Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I'm a bit of a newby to turbos and was wondering if we had 3 prepped RB25's and bolted the same HKS 3040 turbo to each motor but had say a .6, .8 and a 1.0 rear on each turbo

what would the difference be on each power wise ie low down, mid range and top end which ar would give you the best average power?

what would the gains/losses be?

would this govern how much boost each turbo is capable of being efficient at?

If each turbo is say rated at 550hp how is this possible with 3 different rears or does this not effect the over all power?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34863-rear-exhaust-housing-ar-sizes/
Share on other sites

Smaller turbine housing - boost will come in earlier, but the downside is they wont have the top end of a larger housing - due to the additional back pressure. Also, with a smaller housing, it is more difficult to control how the boost hits, its either on or off - the net result of this is you would have to turn your boost down to drive on the street safely, and prevent unplanned lane changing.

The boost pressure where a turbo is efficient is dictated by the compressor.

Buggered if I know how a turbo can be rated at 550hp with 3 different rears, unless they rate at the smallest sized housing - which means the larger ones have the potential to make more.

Real world example, I had a 0.61 housing on 3037, boost came in so hard, at around 3000rpm, that the back end would step out at light throttle even in 4th gear and doing around 100kph. Not so bad if you want it to, but not so good in traffic. I am not sure about top end, but the turbo did make 256rwkw at 1 bar with an quick tune.

same turbo with 0.87, 1.2 bar (17.4lbs) at just under 4000rpm. The car pulls pretty hard from around 3500-3700, so around 500 or so rpm more lag (after changing to a higher flowing exhaust). I have 22lbs set all day, and can control the boost with the accellerator pedal. turbo now makes around 285 at 17lbs and 321 at 22lbs (around 1.6bar).

I much prefer the 0.87 housing. Much more lag though would be a bit too much IMHO. If you want my recommendation for a 3040, I would say go the 0.87. Merli had a 3040 with 0.87 turbine AR on his R33, it would be worth asking him what he thinks too.

Steve

would i gain any peformance/power from having the exhaust housing bored out on the factroy turbo

for the cost of taking it out getting the work done and then putting in back on, u might as well throw it in the bin while its off and get a decent turbo :D

BTW i got a 0.82 rear housing on my 3040 and its easy to drive in traffic and then when u go past 4000rpm its really fun to drive.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...