Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-69803-0-49049400-1293596154_thumb.jpg post-69803-0-90775600-1293596198_thumb.jpg

The idea is to run an electric oil pump as well as the standard one.

so that you could have full oil pressure before you even start your car and then when your motor did start the electric one would turn

off using a oil pressure switch.

to do it: remove the bungs out of a standard oil pump and then tape threads into the holes. Run a couple of check valves (to stop the standard pump putting

pressure back thro the electric one) then run a couple of oil lines to the electric pump.

You could run a oil pressure switch (set to whatever) so that if your motor dropped oil pressure the electric one would kick in .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348645-rb26-oil-pumps/
Share on other sites

post-69803-0-49049400-1293596154_thumb.jpg post-69803-0-90775600-1293596198_thumb.jpg

Yeah its been done, we have put one on our R32 Drag car, we have a peterson 4 stage dry sump pump with a 12v electric pump plumbed in-line. The electric pump is wired up so it can pre-lube the engine before start-up and is also used as a back up pump if we happened to break the belt going to the peterson pump, only problem is that it can only use what ever oil is in the dry sump tank but should give us enough time to shut down the engine safely.

Don't know how easy it would be with a standard style oil pump, probably not worth the hassle unless the engine is worth mega $$$.

Heres some pics:

32101_1469770071345_1446408764_31202031_7841083_n.jpg

32101_1469769991343_1446408764_31202029_800998_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348645-rb26-oil-pumps/#findComment-5605031
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...