Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Oil Pumps

32gtrsteve

By 32gtrsteve,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

32gtrsteve Collaborator

32gtrsteve

Posted
Posted

post-69803-0-49049400-1293596154_thumb.jpg post-69803-0-90775600-1293596198_thumb.jpg

The idea is to run an electric oil pump as well as the standard one.

so that you could have full oil pressure before you even start your car and then when your motor did start the electric one would turn

off using a oil pressure switch.

to do it: remove the bungs out of a standard oil pump and then tape threads into the holes. Run a couple of check valves (to stop the standard pump putting

pressure back thro the electric one) then run a couple of oil lines to the electric pump.

You could run a oil pressure switch (set to whatever) so that if your motor dropped oil pressure the electric one would kick in .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348645-rb26-oil-pumps/
Share on other sites
Nur33 Mentor

Nur33

Posted
Posted

post-69803-0-49049400-1293596154_thumb.jpg post-69803-0-90775600-1293596198_thumb.jpg

Yeah its been done, we have put one on our R32 Drag car, we have a peterson 4 stage dry sump pump with a 12v electric pump plumbed in-line. The electric pump is wired up so it can pre-lube the engine before start-up and is also used as a back up pump if we happened to break the belt going to the peterson pump, only problem is that it can only use what ever oil is in the dry sump tank but should give us enough time to shut down the engine safely.

Don't know how easy it would be with a standard style oil pump, probably not worth the hassle unless the engine is worth mega $$$.

Heres some pics:

32101_1469770071345_1446408764_31202031_7841083_n.jpg

32101_1469769991343_1446408764_31202029_800998_n.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348645-rb26-oil-pumps/#findComment-5605031
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...