Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just curious if anyone has ever had issues with their power steering on a V35 sedan?

My 300GT is going well presently, but I had considered fitting a power steering cooler of some sort, as I had a poke underneath my car and couldn't seem to see any form of cooler at all. I'm pretty sure I saw one on a mate's 350Z tucked away in the bumper though.

I want to get the fluid flushed anyway, so I'd rather get a cooler fitted now.

Any idea if the Nismo item would fit?

http://mynismo.com/products/?id=2524

Or maybe just go something aftermarket?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348874-v35-power-steering-cooler/
Share on other sites

unless youre going to the track and doing a lot of steering, then there is no point running a cooler on the power steering.

it needs to be at a particular temperature for it to operate efficiently. if you make it too cool (like a transmission or engine) then you may affect its performance.

unless youre going to the track and doing a lot of steering, then there is no point running a cooler on the power steering.

it needs to be at a particular temperature for it to operate efficiently. if you make it too cool (like a transmission or engine) then you may affect its performance.

Do you reckon it would run it too cool on a 42C day in Adelaide?? I'm just fearful, had one go on another car (Supra) years ago, cost about $1500 to fix - was not too impressed. Mechanic reckoned heat is the main cause of failure, but it doesn't seem to be an issue for the V!

Will have another poke around underneath, there must be something there.

Cheers

thers is probably a loop of hose that is the 'cooler', to remove some heat from the fluid.

if youre going to the track then get one, otherwise dont bother. unless its for rice factor, then by all means, get one :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...