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On the body side of things, leave it stock with a tuff set of rims Volk GT-C's spring to mind. The R34 is already a mean looking car, maybe add a vented bonnet for abit more of a tougher stance but the money you save on body parts you could put into your engine and driveline, a few k in fibreglass could be spent on adjustable suspension, brakes etc.

my two coin

Cam

P.S

be thankfull you own one, many of us dream of owning this car lol you don't need to go all out you have one of the best cars ever made already.

Red R Racing charges around $2500 for a 26 rebuild with machine labour around the $2000-$2500 mark including cylinder head (mine was a little dearer as i had a hybrid custom engine built). They have around 25 engines currently in service and with an excellent reliability record. They are responsible for engine in the 1350hp Nitto R34 (dyno comp proven 1070hp at all four), their own 9 second street GTR and many others on here. Their quality of workmanship and attention to finer details is second to none. Ive personally seen engine bearings come out of their race engines on freshen up that still appear brand new with very little moly coating removed so the bearing clearances and oil grade selection for the application is nothing short of exact. They can arrange freight and even manufacture their own export standard sealed delivery crates. Quite a few workshops now outsource their engine work to these guys as they have proven to be one of the best options in this country. Paul is also a very handy fabricator and has recently started manufacturing their own lazer cut and tig welded 9 litre race sumps and lobster back exhaust systems.

I had my Nitto 30/26 built there and hasn't missed a beat having built a few engines myself over the years i know what it takes to get things right.

On the body side of things, leave it stock with a tuff set of rims Volk GT-C's spring to mind. The R34 is already a mean looking car, maybe add a vented bonnet for abit more of a tougher stance but the money you save on body parts you could put into your engine and driveline, a few k in fibreglass could be spent on adjustable suspension, brakes etc.

my two coin

Cam

P.S

be thankfull you own one, many of us dream of owning this car lol you don't need to go all out you have one of the best cars ever made already.

Cool, thanks!

But insurance is paying for the body parts, the splitter and lower lip are being replaced along with intercooler, so there is some scope there to do some work.

Red R Racing charges around $2500 for a 26 rebuild with machine labour around the $2000-$2500 mark including cylinder head (mine was a little dearer as i had a hybrid custom engine built). They have around 25 engines currently in service and with an excellent reliability record. They are responsible for engine in the 1350hp Nitto R34 (dyno comp proven 1070hp at all four), their own 9 second street GTR and many others on here. Their quality of workmanship and attention to finer details is second to none. Ive personally seen engine bearings come out of their race engines on freshen up that still appear brand new with very little moly coating removed so the bearing clearances and oil grade selection for the application is nothing short of exact. They can arrange freight and even manufacture their own export standard sealed delivery crates. Quite a few workshops now outsource their engine work to these guys as they have proven to be one of the best options in this country. Paul is also a very handy fabricator and has recently started manufacturing their own lazer cut and tig welded 9 litre race sumps and lobster back exhaust systems.

I had my Nitto 30/26 built there and hasn't missed a beat having built a few engines myself over the years i know what it takes to get things right.

Thanks, that is the second vote for Red R, will give them a call!

+1 for anthony scali @ xpseed. What kinda of prices are they charging you to do it interstate, and how much is frieght?

Have had a chat to X-speed already, they are my current mechanics.

They are saying $6,000 in labour just to build the engine, hence why I am looking to Lewis Engines or someone like that.

But the costs from X-speed was pretty much as follows;

$1,100 pistons

$1,000 rods

$700 head gasket

$2,000 head overhaul only, no porting

$600 bearings

$800 gasket kit

$500 hose kit

$1,600 HKS oil pump

$6,000 labour

$2,500 Machining

Lewis Engines;

$12,569 plus $399 freight;

Block bored,honed,decked, cracktested, oil restrictors, Crank collar, cracktest,grind, blueprint clearances, microppolish

Acl comp bearings, JE forged pistons total seal rings, Spool h beam rods with arp 2000 bolts, Arp main and head studs

Steel 4 layer head gasket, Tomei oil pump, Genuine Nissan gaskets, Tomeii 264 cams, Springs step 2, Full recon head,refaced,guides,multi angle valve job,seals ,tappet adjustment, 300cfm port job –maximum, Hi octane hi vol race sump extension and baffles also mods to oil drainbacks in sump

Assembled complete sump to covers

Red R Racing charges around $2500 for a 26 rebuild with machine labour around the $2000-$2500 mark including cylinder head (mine was a little dearer as i had a hybrid custom engine built). They have around 25 engines currently in service and with an excellent reliability record. They are responsible for engine in the 1350hp Nitto R34 (dyno comp proven 1070hp at all four), their own 9 second street GTR and many others on here. Their quality of workmanship and attention to finer details is second to none. Ive personally seen engine bearings come out of their race engines on freshen up that still appear brand new with very little moly coating removed so the bearing clearances and oil grade selection for the application is nothing short of exact. They can arrange freight and even manufacture their own export standard sealed delivery crates. Quite a few workshops now outsource their engine work to these guys as they have proven to be one of the best options in this country. Paul is also a very handy fabricator and has recently started manufacturing their own lazer cut and tig welded 9 litre race sumps and lobster back exhaust systems.

I had my Nitto 30/26 built there and hasn't missed a beat having built a few engines myself over the years i know what it takes to get things right.

You got any contact details for them??

Can't find anything useful on the web.

You got any contact details for them??

Can't find anything useful on the web.

call paul direct on 0448822360

they built the cylinder head on the R34 that was recently on the cover of HPI, i believe this is an xspeed car also. Bakes R34 is another Red R special.

http://img16.imageshack.us/i/66330418.jpg/

http://img7.imageshack.us/i/76470055.jpg/

there is adiffrence between screwing an engine together and the dude who does the machining

the person who does teh machining is the person to be praised as they make the assembler the person who looks good

simple fact

the person who tightens all the bolts jobs is to measure the shit out of it and check the machinists work.. a good one of these finds the issues before you even put it together

there is adiffrence between screwing an engine together and the dude who does the machining

the person who does teh machining is the person to be praised as they make the assembler the person who looks good

simple fact

the person who tightens all the bolts jobs is to measure the shit out of it and check the machinists work.. a good one of these finds the issues before you even put it together

In most instances the machinist works under instruction from engine builder. Machinist generally has no idea of application and therefore has no idea where clearances need to be for every engine. Different brands depending on application can vary quite a few thou just in rb piston selection let alone bearing clearances which even the oil grade being used can influence. The completed package is a combination of knowledge and skill of both engine builder and accuracy of machining and measurement.

i definately disagree

find a decent machinist and stick with them

eg roll up with parts

state if you want 400 or 800 hp or more

pay money pick parts up and screw it together checkin the his stated tolerances

if you telling the machinist what tollerences you need for your engine and what oil........ typically the engine builder has ben told by the machinsit before, has got a few engines running putting around running numbers at those tollerences and then the asembler tells eveyone what tolerances he likes on his engine and it was his idea

i guess it comes down to what snake oil you need to buy in the end

i definately disagree

find a decent machinist and stick with them

eg roll up with parts

state if you want 400 or 800 hp or more

pay money pick parts up and screw it together checkin the his stated tolerances

if you telling the machinist what tollerences you need for your engine and what oil........ typically the engine builder has ben told by the machinsit before, has got a few engines running putting around running numbers at those tollerences and then the asembler tells eveyone what tolerances he likes on his engine and it was his idea

i guess it comes down to what snake oil you need to buy in the end

I think the key here gents is make sure the machinist and the engine builder are the same guy. I have always tried to do that in the past :thumbsup:

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