Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well for christmas i got a Mig Welder that selects either Gas or Gasless to weld, well i had broken one of the steel supports for my bed frame that sits about half way in the middle of the bed, so i decided it was a perfect chance to text out and get a feel for the welder, well the welder at the beginning was shooting holes and from what my mates had taught me this normally means the welder is to hot , so i turned it down it kept shooting holes, and at the lowest setting it was still semi-shooting but i managed to weld it up, could this be something to do with it not being ran on gas.

By the way i am using a 15 AMP power point so its not under powered

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349457-gasless-or-gas-mig-welder/
Share on other sites

Gasless was designed for robot industrial welding mainly, its banned in some countries due to the toxic fumes it gives off. I haven't personally used it and don't want to try, stick to argon mixes and you shouldn't have any issues.

Im guessing the bed was made of fairly thin material, it would be a pain to weld with mig or tig. Did you clean it well first?

check what wire you are using...if you using normal wire and your using it without gas its going to be very messy and not work.

Even with the right wire designed for gasless welding, if the steel is less than about 1mm thick you will have to pulse it to weld it rather than just hold it on, basically just do a .5second spot every 2 seconds or so, you will get a feel for how much heat it can handle as you go.

Stick to brand name gasless wire also - I used to always run CIG stuff (shield cor-15 I think) and it was pretty good - I ran out on a sunday and went to get some more from bunnings to finish a job and they are now selling some no name crap that is useless... the bead looked like you had got a bit of bubble gum, rolled it in gravel and thrown it at the metal, had zero penitration even on the 1.2mm RHS I was welding

So I now get mine from gasweld, their stuff is ~$20 for 0.9kg and so far worked perfect in all conditions, better than the shild core actually which was twice the price, some of the welds I have done with it are as good as I have ever done with a profesional Gas-Mig setup.

As the other scott said, the fumes can be a bit nasty - especially if welding galv - my brother put himself in hospital for a few days after spending an afternoon welding. So make sure your outside in a well ventilated area, gasless wire can handle a fair bit of wind as the shielding gas is coming out of the flux in the wire, where as normal argon mig it blows away much more easy.

Edited by samstain

If you have to weld in a confined enviroment get a exhaust fan and connect some flexy duct to it, I made up a little box with the fan in it which I put outside and have the duct at the spot where Im welding, its not pretty but its better than scking fumes IMO.

Ill try and find a pic of one as mine went the way of the dinosaurs when I lent it to a mate.

yes i cleaned the surface up perfectally and it was made of thin materials, and i was using a mild steel wire for mild steel frame, it seemed to work but it just didnt look neat it was spitting heaps

was it just normal mild steel wire? or gasless mild steel wire?

Excessive spitting could be non gasless wire, or bad earth - though gasless does tend to spit a bit more than proper mig setups.

Edited by samstain

Just thought id add some info here.

The nitty gritty is very simple. flux core 'gasless' (there is also flux core 'gas') welding is negative electrode. In short it means the majority of heat is in your workpiece rather than the wire. Gas mig is positive electrode which is the opposite. Thats why generally flux core is not suited for thinner materials although is beneficial to thicker materials as the same input current can yield much better penetration.

Best way to see this taking place is if youve ever tried to TIG weld aluminium without AC, with a normal DC scratch start TIG welder it is possible to weld aluminium (using electrode positive) but to prevent the tungsten from melting you have to use an electrode 3-4 times bigger than you would for the amperage. If you try to weld aluminium with DC negative you will not see a pool form but rather the material will literally turn molten and flop apart in a matter of seconds.

Spitting could be any number of things; wire speed, amperage, stickout, wrong wire, contamined surface the list goes on. Realistically you get what you pay for and for any kind of welding on cars or sheetmetal you can forget fluxcore, get some gas and take some lessons is the best advice.

Sorry if i went on but i remember learning to weld and there is a million people who think they know how to weld when quite simply; they dont have the slightest idea.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...