Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice.

I have an R33 GTS25T with:

Pod filter

Intercooler

3 inch turbo back exhaust

Walbro fuel pump (not a fake)

550cc injectors

Oil catch can

HKS GT-RS Turbo

Power FC

Greddy profec bspec 2

Currently it makes 338rwhp on ~15psi. No real blowby to speak of, pretty healthy motor on 97xxx kms.

Basically, I was considering getting a retune and upping the boost to around 18psi. Anyone know what sort of gains I could expect, or should I not bother because I am already making the power most people make out of this turbo anyway? (Boost being a measure of resistance to flow etc etc)

I have also heard claims that the standard exhaust manifold is marginal even at the power I am currently making, is there any truth to this?

Cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349514-gt-rs-more-boost/
Share on other sites

Used to run 20-21psi all day every day for over a year with no dramas (currently running low boost until I tune it for high boost again).

Chuck it on a dyno and see if there is gains to be had. If the gains are marginal than turn it back down.

Mine used to make a lot more power on 18+psi than 14psi, but every car is different.

1. unless you built the motor or know the person that did then it's not on 97,000 (probably more like 197,000)

2. do it

You know this how? :P

Used to run 20-21psi all day every day for over a year with no dramas (currently running low boost until I tune it for high boost again).

Chuck it on a dyno and see if there is gains to be had. If the gains are marginal than turn it back down.

Mine used to make a lot more power on 18+psi than 14psi, but every car is different.

Thanks mate, can you remember any numbers, like the difference between 14 and 18? Plus, from the all important seat of the pants dyno, was it worth it?

You know this how? :P

Thanks mate, can you remember any numbers, like the difference between 14 and 18? Plus, from the all important seat of the pants dyno, was it worth it?

all these people with "80,000" skylines make me lol

as phil said, throw it on the rollers and tune it up until the point of diminishing return

230-235rwkw on 14psi and 255rwkw on 18-20psi prior to any head work.

Once the headwork was done the most I saw was 263rwkw on the same dyno on 19-20psi.

Always had the boost start dropping off towards redline though. My tuner didn't really know how to tune the boost controller so my boost curve was fairly average.

At the moment I have retuned it on low boost and the car feels slow as hell, so yeah definetely high boost all the way lol.

However remember every single dyno is different. I've seen cars with dyno sheets saying 350rwkw and then they run it on a different dyno and it will be 310rwkw. It really does vary so I try not to use other peoples dyno sheets to much other than a guide, and just use the same dyno every time you do mods to see if there is an increase on that particular dyno.

230-235rwkw on 14psi and 255rwkw on 18-20psi prior to any head work.

Once the headwork was done the most I saw was 263rwkw on the same dyno on 19-20psi.

Always had the boost start dropping off towards redline though. My tuner didn't really know how to tune the boost controller so my boost curve was fairly average.

At the moment I have retuned it on low boost and the car feels slow as hell, so yeah definetely high boost all the way lol.

However remember every single dyno is different. I've seen cars with dyno sheets saying 350rwkw and then they run it on a different dyno and it will be 310rwkw. It really does vary so I try not to use other peoples dyno sheets to much other than a guide, and just use the same dyno every time you do mods to see if there is an increase on that particular dyno.

Yeah, I was more interested in the hp gain vs boost added, that helps!

Are you running a standard exhaust manifold?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...