Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Ran into a bit of an issue, parked my car at my place and locked it as normal with the remote and when I came back to it the next morning the damn passenger door won't open! I can definitely hear the mechanism engaging when I hit unlock on the remote but it just wont open, even from the inside of the car.

I'm guessing the door lock actuator is acting up and will need to be replaced, I'm confident enough to do it myself following the great DIY's on the forum, the only problem is how I would go about replacing it if the door is stuck closed . I assume it would be almost impossible to get the door trim off while it's closed. Any suggestions on how I'd be able to get it open?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350112-passenger-door-stuck-closed/
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

I know how to fix this issue :)

1. wind your window down

2. the door trim near the edge of the door needs a flat blade screw driver (with tape wound around it to protect the trim) inserted into where the windows goes down

3. lift the trim up at the very edge (outer not hinge end) and it should lift off the metal guide. (do it on the other door the correct way so you can see how it comes off)

4. now lift the trim away from the edge of the door guide

5. with the trim being held away from the door as much as possible look for the mechanism with a tourch

6. Get a long pair of pointy nose pliers and manually pull the locking mechanism

once you take the other door off you will see the cable L shape pin on the end of the cable sits in the locking mechanism. Your cable may have come out or actuator is so weak its not pulling it hard enough

Edited by R6n350GT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...