Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All right guys i thought i would put up a little guide to help out with choosing the right size fuel injector.

So i see alot of guys asking what size injectors they need to make x amount of power. with a few simple calculations its easy to find out exactly how much injector you will need..

Things you need to know before srating.

Fuel going to be used (PULP or E85).

Naturally aspirated or forced induction.

How many Injectors being used.

For this example i will work on 350rwkw, turbo, PULP fuel, 6 cylinder as the target amount of power.

Target Injector duty cycle will be 80% and rail pressure 43.5psi

First thing we need to know is how many bhp is 350rwkw?

350 multiply by 1.36 = 476bhp.

Next we need to work out your B.S.F.C (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption)- How much fuel your car uses per horse power per hour. See Below. (every car is different but this will help as a general rule)

Naturally Aspirated PULP = .5

Naturally Aspirated E85 = .62

Forced Induction PULP = .7

Forced Induction E85 = .9

now to find out what size injectors we need!!!!

HORSEPOWER X B.S.F.C 476 X .7 ___________________ = __________________ = 69.4LB/HR

NO. OF INJECTORS (6) X .8 4.8

(DUTY CYCLE)

To convert LB/HR to CC/MIN Multiply by 10.5 = 728cc.

so 729cc at 43.5psi rail pressure. so now we have got ourself some 750cc injectors, Now lets work out what sort of cc we can get out of these injectors with a little extra Base rail pressure!!!!!!

Considering most injectors will have a max pressure of 100psi we can push these injectors a lot harder then they are currently work.

Since we are running forced induction and using a rising rate FPR we have to factor in the boost pressure being used. Lets say 20psi. so 43.5psi(Base Rail pressure) plus the 20psi boost pressure equals 63.5psi. So an extra 10psi Base rail pressure should be no problem for these injectors.

(Always calculate the flow rates on the base rail pressure. the rising rate is there to counteract the pressure from in inside if the runners pushing back against the injector)

NEW FUEL PRESSURE (50PSI)

_________________ = 1.15 FIND THE SQUARE = 1.07 MULTIPLY BY = 802CC

ROOT OF THIS NUMBER OLD CC (750)

OLD FUEL PRESSURE (43.5PSI)

This is a guide only. it is also best to check with your tuner when buying injectors,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350429-fuel-injectors-which-one-for-you/
Share on other sites

  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...