Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

An all time classic Volk, forged monoblock - super lightweight and strong, massive brake clearance for those with big brakes. These will never go out of style. 18 x 9 +35 front and 18 x 10 +35 rear

Import monster had them $2300 for a complete set if you check out this link http://www.importmon...products_id=919

unfortunately it only comes wit x2 of 18x9 front and x1 18x10 rear, which is not a complete set. It will be a very cheap buy if you can find the other rear 18x10,

They dnt have buckles, but with slight scrathes

IMAG0102.jpg

IMAG0101.jpg

IMAG0100.jpg

IMAG0099.jpg

IMAG0106.jpg

IMAG0105.jpg

IMAG0104.jpg

IMAG0103.jpg

Make an offer, no stupid offers please, resonable offer will be considered

contact me: 0400 928 949 or pm me here or email me on [email protected]

pick up location: Western Sydney near to WSID (rooty hill)

*******************************************************************************************************

Front and Rear Strut bars up for sale for Mark IV SUPRA

IMAG0110.jpg

IMAG0109.jpg

IMAG0108.jpg

$60 each

or $100 for both

contact me: 0400 928 949 or pm me here or email me on [email protected]

pick up location: Western Sydney near to WSID (rooty hill)

******************************************************************************************************

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350832-nsw-volk-rims-supra-strut-bar/
Share on other sites

more items for sale:

Up for sale Skyline R32 Vertex Style, a pair of Side skirt and rear bar for GTS/GTS-T/GTS4

Good condition slight scratches but might need a good respray to suit your car's colour

Reason of selling: Garage clean up

IMAG0092.jpg

IMAG0188.jpg

66550667AHFUYtY4R32VTSSRB.jpg

$350 ono

contact me: 0400 928 949 or pm me here or email me on [email protected]

pick up location: Western Sydney near to WSID (rooty hill) / HIlls district

***************************************************************************************************

Stock Airbox for R32 GTS-T/GTS4 Rb20det

IMAG0189.jpg

comes with filter aswell,can become handy for roadworthy and to remove defects if your pod filter has been defected.

$40

Contact me: 0400 928 949 or pm me here or email me on [email protected]

pick up location: Western Sydney near to WSID (rooty hill)

*************************************************************************************************

16 inch Genuine Enkei Bortex Mirella made in japan multi stud 4x114.3 and 5x114.3

16x7 wide and the tyres are 205/50/16 all around

2 wheels has 95% rubber and the other 2 are 80% rubber

Good condition no buckles but with slight scratches

IMAG0185.jpg

IMAG0186.jpg

IMAG0187.jpg

DSC01490.jpg

15864_219312209618_621974618_4204020_1591911_n.jpg

$600 ono

Contact me: 0400 928 949 or pm me here or email me on [email protected]

pick up location: Western Sydney near to WSID (rooty hill) / HIlls district

Edited by GGGTS4
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...