Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

quickpic.jpg

while driving too!

only one i have atm.

while moving its fine... only really heavy duty powerlines overhead interupt it and hills... but i get clear reception on at least 1 channel all the time.

highly recommended.

Edited by Cobey

Further to Cobey's post, they seem to work better in some areas than others. I know Brisbane has pretty much 100% coverage. My area is so hilly and miles from the transmitter that I don't get all channels everywhere. The picture will freeze for a bit as I go behind big hills. Most urban areas would provide viewable TV - for your passengers - I would think.

Can you post any pics of it in operation? how is it while moving?

If all comes out good, who do i need to speak with about getting one - im down.

Hi Tim, PM sent.

  • 2 weeks later...

Cool, was going to start on mine this weekend but too much on and with F1 next weekend its pretty much a writeoff...care to send through any tips?

Sorry, only just saw this. Umm, tips.... Besides "be nice to your mum", my only tip would be pull the tuner out of the bracket to plug the connecting cable into the socket.

On the M35, all the connectors are visible with the tuner bolted to the side of the car. In the V's they sit with the connectors facing away from the boot space.

When I was helping Cobey with his install, I tried to plug the lead (individual connectors) into the white socket by feel. Maybe if I had a mirror it would have worked. As it turned out I didn't get the video lead on properly and for a minute were thinking it was all broken.:blush:

It only takes a few seconds to remove the screws so you can see what you are doing. That's my tip.

Everything else is pretty straight forward. Just have to work your way along the car removing the sill trim to run the IR lead & antennas (& battery/earth wires if required) & put it back together.

yeah you need to use the powered antennas in sydney. when i didnt have mine powered, i barely got a channel, with power. i get everything!

the language conversion can bypass the screen cut, but this would only be for 'testing' purposes. there are switches available from japan that plugs into the loom and does everything for you.

u guys using a powered antenna for that result?

Ive got an Asuka and can barely pick up a channel in Syd :(

also how did you bypass the trigger that cuts out the screen when the car is in motion? that ridiculously expensive switch or something else?

If your antenna isnt working and it came with the asuka unit have you tried going in the menu and turning antenna to powered on. Its in the menu 605 (in menu mode press menu then 6 0 5). It put 5v onto the antenna.

It might help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...