Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

quickpic.jpg

while driving too!

only one i have atm.

while moving its fine... only really heavy duty powerlines overhead interupt it and hills... but i get clear reception on at least 1 channel all the time.

highly recommended.

Edited by Cobey

Further to Cobey's post, they seem to work better in some areas than others. I know Brisbane has pretty much 100% coverage. My area is so hilly and miles from the transmitter that I don't get all channels everywhere. The picture will freeze for a bit as I go behind big hills. Most urban areas would provide viewable TV - for your passengers - I would think.

Can you post any pics of it in operation? how is it while moving?

If all comes out good, who do i need to speak with about getting one - im down.

Hi Tim, PM sent.

  • 2 weeks later...

Cool, was going to start on mine this weekend but too much on and with F1 next weekend its pretty much a writeoff...care to send through any tips?

Sorry, only just saw this. Umm, tips.... Besides "be nice to your mum", my only tip would be pull the tuner out of the bracket to plug the connecting cable into the socket.

On the M35, all the connectors are visible with the tuner bolted to the side of the car. In the V's they sit with the connectors facing away from the boot space.

When I was helping Cobey with his install, I tried to plug the lead (individual connectors) into the white socket by feel. Maybe if I had a mirror it would have worked. As it turned out I didn't get the video lead on properly and for a minute were thinking it was all broken.:blush:

It only takes a few seconds to remove the screws so you can see what you are doing. That's my tip.

Everything else is pretty straight forward. Just have to work your way along the car removing the sill trim to run the IR lead & antennas (& battery/earth wires if required) & put it back together.

yeah you need to use the powered antennas in sydney. when i didnt have mine powered, i barely got a channel, with power. i get everything!

the language conversion can bypass the screen cut, but this would only be for 'testing' purposes. there are switches available from japan that plugs into the loom and does everything for you.

u guys using a powered antenna for that result?

Ive got an Asuka and can barely pick up a channel in Syd :(

also how did you bypass the trigger that cuts out the screen when the car is in motion? that ridiculously expensive switch or something else?

If your antenna isnt working and it came with the asuka unit have you tried going in the menu and turning antenna to powered on. Its in the menu 605 (in menu mode press menu then 6 0 5). It put 5v onto the antenna.

It might help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...