Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have now decided that I need to let this go... Everything is BRAND NEW except for the Z32 AFM (including plug), although as you will find it is in immac condition. I have had this whole package sitting around for some time now (have been extremely lazy to do the work and fit it up). Now I need the funds to move onto others things and priorities, thus I need to let it go.

I would prefer to sell EVERYTHING as a whole entire package, as the whole shabang is everything you will need to get the turbo into your s13/180sx... And I mean EVERYTHING.

Please refer to the first picture which gives you an idea of what's included and approx prices if I were to part. You can see that it adds up very quick and over what I'm asking for the package deal. I'm losing out bad on this :( I can list everything out if need be, but I think that picture says it all. I still have receipts for the genuine potential buyer if you like them.

img2342c.jpg

img2274s.jpgimg2321e.jpg

Just to note, people that know me knows that I don't half ass shit for my ride, so all is the best parts you can buy (I'm sure you have realised from the pictures). E.g. the HPC on the turbine housing is from the one and only HPC - High Performance Coatings which everyone knows they are the real deal.

Anyway, it is a very regretful sale :( Low ballers will be told where to go. I am extremely firm on the price. Again, I would prefer the whole thing to go in one entire lot and one person so it makes the upgrade striaght forward. Basically the funds will be very helpful to put forward onto priorities, but since it's been sitting around for this long now, if I don't get what I'm after I'll keep it.

I'm after $3k for the lot picked up from Burwood East VIC (postage additional for interstate buyers). Anyone that knows their shit will know that this is VERY WELL priced!

For genuine interest, please pm me ^_^

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Below I have other shit for sale too...

============================================================================================

Topic Title: Bride NO50RX passenger rails S13/14/15

Topic Category: Australia - VIC

Topic Description: Plus a couple of other random shit

Hi All,

Need to rid the following...

Bride NO50RX passenger rails S13/14/15 - $200 FIRM

Condition as shown in pictures. Close to brand spankin. Includes EVERYTHING that you would buy brand new (as seen in pics), although a fraction of the cost (rrp $330+). Also comes with the proper seat belt bolts that you usually wouldn't get with second hand sales.

img2191k.jpgimg2185qi.jpgimg2188w.jpgimg2189o.jpgimg2194gl.jpgimg2196l.jpgimg2202c.jpg

Federal 595SS 235/45R17 x2 - $150 pair

Approx 90% tread and even throughout. These have been stored in the garage away from the sun and rain etc.

dsc00353tq.jpg

Better/clearer pictures to follow*

S13/180SX castor rod brackets - $20

Stupid Melbourne roads = Slight bend on a section as shown in picture, although easy enough to pull back out if you're fussy. Does NOT effect fitment of castor rods and imperfection is only superficial. Good for strengthening and creating your own Nismo Power Brace (rrp $300+) at a fraction of the cost if you're handy with a welder!

img2173wu.jpg

Rays air valve stems x5 - $20

Second hand as you can see, although are great quality. To fit TE37 and SE37K rims (came off these), and many other Rays Volk Racing rims.

img0397ww.jpg

Bride rail I'll send anywhere in Aust via smartsend.com.au or similar at your expense. From previous experience with sending a drivers side rail to NSW, it was about $30 to do so.

Federal rubber I'ld prefer pick up only.

The random shit I'm happy to send via Express Post at no additional cost :thumbsup:

Location is Burwood East VIC for pick up.

Cheers,

Andy

============================================================================================

Topic Title: Projector Lenses for 180sx

Topic Category: Australia - VIC

Topic Description: Lengthy read!!!

Hi All,

Ok now here's one for the boys and girls with creative minds and enjoys acheiving the completion of modifying shit for their pride and joy...

This has been sitting around forever tucked around in the spare room... I only come across this after doing a clean up. All the shit it's caused me I was going to throw it away, but thought it may go to better use. Also didn't want to throw away all the hard work and effort I previously put in!!!

So on with it, a quick background info...

I spent about 6 months trying to modify some projector lense headlights for my 180sx. This project has cost me a fkn heap and so much fkn around!!! If you have followed my previous threads/posts about HID's for 180sx's, you'll find that I've spent alot time, MONEY $$$, and effort trying to do HID's the correct way!

Unfortunately, after long anticipation but utter disappointment I failed to complete the project. This whole project backfired on me as I couldn't get it to fit up the type of HID's I run (Kaixen H4 hi/lo HID's which are too long) :rant: Having said that, you may possibly continue where I left off and make it suit if you have sorter type HID's!!!

So yeah, what I did was ended up buying two kits as I cracked the first headlight housing glass. The projector lense kits in question are PSI Parts H7 globe 7" x 5" Crystal Head Light Lamps with Angel Eyes UN50L17 (ref: http://www.psiparts.com.au/detail.htm?ProductID=UN50L17). Similar (if not same) as these Norcal MR2 ones (http://norcalmr2.com/pegasus/) although mine has the cut off for Australia roads.

I'm putting up for sale both kits, pretty much a double up of everything except the headlight housing and one of the glass (you'll see in the below pictures, except one of the spare glass is missing from the pictures - 3 glasses in total you'll get). One kit's been modified, and the other is standard as per sold by PSI Parts.

The current glass are masking taped up to the housing (as seen in the pictures) as I removed the silicon off cleanly. If you want to run the standard kit (saving yourself $100+ if bought new) you'll need to silicon them back up and away you go. Alternatively you can continue to keep going and finish off what I couldn't :( This gives you the opportunity to decide what you want to do with them!

Anyway, this is a bloody long for sale thread with all this dribbling :lol:

dsc00001kc.jpg

dsc00002tl.jpg

dsc00003nv.jpg

dsc00004yq.jpg

dsc00005qu.jpg

If you're genuinely interested, I'm more than happy to run through what I did to modify one of the kits...

I'm after $50 for the lot, everything in the pictures. If you're thinking about buying one of these kits off PSI Parts, I have one here already with additional parts to give you an option (saving $$$).

Shoot me a pm for any interest. Pick up is preferred (Burwood East), although I could post but any additional postage costs would be on you!

Thanks for reading!!!

Cheers,

Andy

============================================================================================

Topic Title: Genuine Origin Type II Carbon Fibre Bonnet

Topic Category: Australia - VIC

Topic Description: Suits 180sx Front

Ok Boys and Girls,

I'm looking at selling off my genuine Origin Lab carbon fibre Type II bonnet. Be different and rock one of a few kicking around in Australia. No need to wait the multiple months from Japan!!!

Condition of the thing is pretty much brand new. I have gone through the trouble to carefully fit AeroCatch latches which I'll include in the sale. Also note that you would typically use the nuts and bolts provided to fit the AeroCatch latches, although they were a bit dodgy for me with only small M4 bolts that could rip out during high speeds. Also using the stock nuts and bolts would require an ugly big hole at the bottom to be cut :sick: I ended up sourcing Password:JDM AeroCatch® Plus Flush Mounting Plates to use. I'm sure this shows you how anal I am when it comes to my car ^_^

Some pictures of the actual item...

img0111mmz.th.jpg img0149wu.th.jpg

img0051wi.jpg

This thing owes over $1.2k... I'm after $1k picked up. I can get it couriered at additional cost for interstate buyers.

Shoot me a pm for GENUINE interest.

Cheers,

Andy

Edit: Pre-AeroCatch latches fitted...

photobf.th.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...