Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I recently had to take my car in due to faulty solenoids (solenoid A error), turned out that there had been water in the tranny and needed a rebuilt so what needed to be replaced was replaced. However now with the new tranny / solenoids the car will still jump into limp mode. Car will start normal but as soon as it gets into 2nd/3rd it'll jump into limp mode. The error can be erased with the handheld device (while driving and in limp mode) but once you stop and take off again it'll jump back into limp mode each time.

- Trans has been replaced.

- soleniods been replaced.

- Wiring looks OK.

- Trying to see if another earth will help

- Could it be an issue related to the tranny ECU?

Does anyone have any ideas of what could now be the issue?

Looking around on the forums there seems to be no sure answer and yes... manaul conversion is a 'last resort'

At one stage I had a dicky earth clamp on the battery, some bumps would move it around, there would be a big lurch and the auto would drop in to limp mode temporarily.

So yes, dodgy earth could be the culprit.

What error code is it throwing up?

Solenoid A before and after, its odd that the car will go in limp mode everytime it gets into 2nd from standstill after the codes get whiped while driving.

Before I had the trans rebuilt the limp mode was 'normal' (for what it is) but now it seems to always just come up right away. However the car drives perfectly fine when not in limp mode

Take it back to the place that rebuilt the transmission, you should have gotten some sort of warranty with it. How long ago was it overhauled?

The auto control unit is part of the ECU, not a separate unit like earlier models.

And if it's throwing the same error before and after the rebuild, that makes me think that whatever they did DIDN'T fix the issue.. I hope you're not paying for them to learn..

Edited by bubba

Haven't paid them yet!

They say rebuild is fine, auto electrician said the wiring seems ok, they've tested the voltage at the solenoids (have been replaced) which seems to be all ok and the earthing seems to be ok too. They seem to be out of ideas of what it could be so I don't really know what my options are. Send my ECU's out to get them checked or even try sending it to a specialist to have a look over?

When the errors are cleared the car drives fine so something for some reason is causing the error to pop up and jump into limp mode wether its faulty soleniods or something else lurking around.

Don't really know what direction to take this in or what my options are?

Edited by noexec

OK here's a little anecdote that might help shed a little light..

When I was playing around with NIStune'd ECU's in my car I was doing a lot of swapping of ECU's. If I just pulled the ECU out without bleeding any residual current in the system (i.e. not pushing the brake pedal after disconnecting the battery), it would throw up HEAPS of A/T errors including a bevy of solenoids and other stuff but nothing was actually broken. It was just the control module flipping out because I didn't discharge the residual current in the system.

The point I'm trying to make is that it *could* be an intermittent earthing or wiring problem somewhere and it sounds like the problem was there before the rebuild and the box probably didn't need new solenoids etc.

Try reset the ECU, if that doesn't work then the auto-sparky needs to be present when the problem is replicated. If it works for a while and randomly drops in to limp mode I highly doubt the TCM (inside the ECU) is the culprit, sounds more like a wiring/connector issue.

Edited by bubba
  • 2 weeks later...

Update (have been too lazy to post), issue has been fixed. Although I told the mechanic to reset the ECU (he also said he had) I guess he mustn't have because the codes cleared up after a while of test driving it around. All good now thumbsup.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...