Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys..

I understand the virtues of each unit listed above (thanks to the search button), but for my circumstances, which would be the best unit to go for ??

Background:

The turbo is staying stock

Boost will be dual stage - low setting 8-9psi, high setting 11-12psi...

Currently, no boost controller or ECU management...(but needed)

The car is a daily driver, not chasing maximum power, happy with max 200rwkw...rather have good torque and power spread..

Already have full exhaust, intercooler, whiteline handling, good tyres, etc etc...

Option 1:

PowerFC with boost controller unit add on (ie is the boost controller reliable ?)

Option 2:

PowerFC with other boost controller (profec B, etc..)

Option 3:

SAFC-II with other boost controller (profec B, etc..)

Option 4:

E-Manage with other boost controller (profec B, etc..)

Option 5:

Other (unichip, etc..) with other boost controller (profec B, etc..)

I suppose the real question is - with my current goals, what is to be gained with the ignition timing and full ECU management over the SAFC-II (fuel only) ?? I know that ingition and full ECU is better overall, but is the extra cost worth it in my case ??

Thanks in advance...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35482-ecu-powerfc-e-manage-or-safc-for-me/
Share on other sites

PowerFC all the way.

Get your self a RB20t wastegate actuator (11psi w/exhaust), by pass the dual stage R33 boost.

Thats what I would do + it saves you some $$ on needing a boost controller.

I've found bleeders are not very good for anything over 2psi for what the actuator is rated at. Boost tends to drop off around 1500rpm away from redline.

EBC's are good however its the $$ involved, using the RB20t actuator saves you some $$ which you could put towards possibly a nice GT30 terbs.

Origionally I thought I would use a dual stage boost setting, I never used the low setting. Save some $$ and put it towards a powerFC & good tune. Close to 200rwkw is possible.

The stock boost controller for the PowerFC does do its job well however there are others that have more features that come in handy when making enough power to fry the tyres in second & third.

AVCR has the ability to set boost to different levels in different gears.

I am unsure of what the others can do. There was one EBC i saw and really really liked. I think it was a Trust one.

It had a large lcd screen that said "Take it easy" when you turned it or the car on. :)

Displayed nice boost graphs and looked very informative.

Thanks for the comments up to date guys..

so far it looks like option 2 (PowerFC with other boost controller) is winning out...

however, the cost of this would be approx...

powerFC = $1000

boost Controller = $500

Tune = $600

So im looking at around the $2000 dollar mark..

If i was to go

safc II - $500

boost Controller - $500

Tune - $200

There is a considerable saving for other mods !!

My question is - for my original target power and torque, how much extra would you gain in ignition and other tuning over just fuel maps, and is it worth the extra $800 or so ??

Gizmo,

There's an old saying. You get what you pay for. You pay for a SAFC & its tune with 11-13psi and you will make maybe 170-180rwkw. You get your self a PowerFC & a RB20T wastegate actuator to hold boost to 11psi and you will make damn close to 200rwkw.

Do it properly the first time.

Just go for a cheap gated bleeder, fit it yourself and save some money. You will be dissapointed with the EBC. And to be honest you arn't going to get a very good ebc for a measily $500.

You don't need the EBC it is overkill. A waste of money.

I sold mine and have stuck to the ol gated bleeder with a wastegate to suit the boost near what I am after. Works much better, boost response is much better & holds smoother than an EBC.

Thanks for that Joel - i was really interested in seeing a rough figure for what the extra $800 got me...

looks like powerfc it is...

Regarding the boost controller - being a daily driver (and doing a fair few freeway k's) i would want dual stage. On the freeway i would definetely use the lower setting, as i wouldnt need a constant 11psi..

Having said that, i may have to investigate the rb20 wastegate actuator option anyway - dont know all that much about it, honestly..

thanks for the info !! :(

Gizmo,

Crusing around you don't constantly make 11psi. Only when you put your foot down.

This is why I found a dual stage a waste of time. Unless you start making lots and lots of power where it fry's the tyres really really easily then it has an advantage in the wet.

Use your right foot to control boost.

Generally keeping up with traffic I only make 5-6psi.

Gizmo,

Crusing around you don't constantly make 11psi. Only when you put your foot in to it.

This is why I found a dual stage a waste of time.

Unless you start making lots and lots of power where it fry's the tyres really really easily then it has an advantage, especially in the wet. :(

Use your right foot to control boost.

Generally keeping up with traffic I only make 5-6psi even though boost is set to 16psi.

Get the PowerFC you will be glad you didn't go the other route.

Yeah power FC is great. I've one and an AVC-r which I already had. It's top stuff and you can also adjust more with the FC and squeeze that little extra from your RB. It's far easier to install that the E-manage as all u gotta do it plug and un-plug so if you have to remove it for any reason it's much faster and no wires to cutsplice. I too have heard people saying they don't like the Apex'i boost controler but then I've spoken to ppl who run them and say they are fine. I've also spoken to tuners that say they are fine. I'd be interested to see what sort of boostmods ppl are running who say they cant get a steady boost level.

Hey Adam...

Thanks for the feedback - i think im definetely sold on the PowerFC now...

would like to hear also about peoples experiences with the powerfc boost controller module....

Hey Joel...

Regarding the wategate actuator, is it like the current stock setup where under about 5000rpm the boost is lower, then is increased abover 5,000rpm ??

Or is it vacuum controled ie how heavy the foot ??

When I had my S-AFC with some mild mods (fmic, T3/4 turbo, plenum, etc) it made around 215rwkw after tuning, but with power dipping and surging above 4500rpm or so. I don't know why it did this, other people I've seen with an S-AFC didn't do it, and in fact mine didn't do it before I upgraded my old fmic to a bigger one and changed the plenum. (yes it was re-tuned after these other mods)

Then I installed a PowerFC and even without tuning, the dipping and surging is gone. I don't know if peak power has increased, but I'm pretty sure it would have because there aren't any flatspots anymore. In fact it's running so nicely that I still haven't had it tuned over 3 months later. I'm almost maxing out my injectors and definitely maxing out the AFM, so I am going to upgrade these 2 things first before bothering to tune it.

This is just my experience on the S-AFC and PowerFC. Take it as you will :(

Power FC is my choice as youdon't need to change this ECU from low mods to high spec 600hp type set-up.

The PFC gave an improvement from low to top revs, fatter low to mid and bit better on top end on dyno. Full exhaust, intake and natural boost increase to .8 bar achieved by "efficient exhaust flow in intake". Boost still at .8 bar.

GTS-T was doing 140kw@rear wheels from 122kw "stock everthing". Dynodynamics was not in "shoot-out mode" to get a closer and realistic figure "on-road power".

Mods after as follows:-

The stock fuel pump was marginal on it's flow which is less than .5 litre return to tank per minute. Upgrade to APEXi fuel pump for volume at dyno tune. Power now at 155Kw ARW from previous 140kw. At this point boost is at 1 bar.

Added APEXi GT-Spec Front Mount intercooler for cooling, AVC-R boost controller "excellent" holds boost steady all the way to top end "no boost fade"and Z32 90mm air flow meter to increase flow signals. Car is at 175kw at 1 bar boost.

Added custom Garrett T28 roller bearing about 400hp, 600cc injectors and cams set with APEXi cam gears. Got 220+kw at rears. Stock engine internals.

Must get a good tuner for this ECU. APEXi Laptop tuning highly recommended.

Cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...