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ok so i know the n1 blocks have a 24U number cast into the block, but is there any way to run the number through nissan to find out if it was just a bare block purchased or if it was a complete assembled n1 motor or taken out of a n1?

reason i ask is theres a car for sale with a supposedly n1 motor from a r33 in it, he didnt built it but the engine was like that from japan, so i just wanna know really if its just a n1 block with unknown internals or if its the real deal. but even if it is unknown internals surely it would be a well built motor? who would buy an n1 block to build a shit motor haha

discuss

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really no engine number cast into the block? if thats the case then this ones probably just been putchases bare and buit up as it has got a number.

i thought an engine number would be like a vin where u can run it through a system to see whats going on, hmm

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really no engine number cast into the block? if thats the case then this ones probably just been putchases bare and buit up as it has got a number.

i thought an engine number would be like a vin where u can run it through a system to see whats going on, hmm

no there is no engine number check like the vin, I have tried too, mine has an engine number on it now also, because when the workshop that changed my engine over, took the broken one out, they stamped the same number on the new motor, which happened to the N1 engine, so now it just has a normal engine number, but the only checks you can do is of an entire car, so you need the correct VIN #, engine # and rego to find out info on that car, thats about the only check you have available. So if you have a car with a different motor in it you won't be able to find much!

thats been my experience anyway, just do the comp & leak down tests, along with all the usual things to look out for, wheather its an original N1 or built probably doesn't matter..

good luck

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N1 'crate' style motors still have ALL the inherrant issues that a normal RB26 bottom end has.

Oiling issues, block cracking/required strengthening etc etc.

So overall they are just overpriced stock motors as you need to strip them down and attend to all these issues. For the price of N1 bottom end you could build a BETTER bottom end without question using a normal 26 block and blow for blow - the motor you had build should be much stronger/resiliant.

Just because someone used a "N1 block" means very little about the internals or supposed "strength".

The only time N1 bottom ends have a use - is scrutenised types of class racing etc etc where it's a requirement.

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