Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tomorrow i get my new FMIC (Trust V-spl) installed and i am having a few thoughts about the increase in power.

It was Nissky's old car.

These are my current mods: -

RB20DET

R34 GTT Turbo (T3)

GTR fuel pump

Remapped computer

Apexi Super AVC-R (first edition, the black one)

2.5 inch turbo back exhaust

Air filter and BOV

Im running 2 levels of psi, 10.5 (.75bar) and 13.3 (.95bar)

Now my question is, with the new bigger intercooler, i should have 20-25kw more(correct me if im wrong) - will my engine/turbo be able to support these mods?

I really dont want the turbo to start leaning out and do rings :D

any help would be appreciated!

Cheers

Sean

Ive heard that installing a bigger FMIC allows the turbo to breath better, resulting in around 2 psi drop. Having a boost controller will keep the amount of psi at the same level it was before the bigger FMIC. Which should increase power levels.

Well that is what i have been told by people on this forum.

Originally posted by rob77

since when does adding a fmic increase HP? didnt for me, allowed me to run more boost in hotter temperature without detonation.

I agree with you rob77 when you say an intercooler allows you to run more boost safely in hotter temperatures (cooler air therefore less chance of detonation at the same boost levels). However I also thought that if you installed a decent aftermarket intercooler over the stock item and didn’t change anything else (boost levels etc) you would still get a performance increase due to the cooler and slightly denser air being inducted. Someone correct me if im wrong, only way to learn.

I think once u install the cooler because there is less pressure drop u will be getting higher boost pressures at the manifold, so more power. Even if u dont tuch the boost. Not 20-25kw though. Could be a reason.

Cheers

Guest INASNT

when i had stock cooler, safc, exhaust i got 155rwkw with 12 psi boost

I then threw on a 600x300x76 cooler and ran it on the dyno again without changing any setting on the safc and i got 183rwkw.

The standard cooler is a pile of poo and does not cooler the intake air/not drop pressure as much as a decent sized cooler, ie cooler the intake air = more power.

Funny that the fastest r33 on a stock turbo was run by a guy with a stock intercooler too. talk to rev210 I think it was a 13.3 on the stock turbo, intercooler, ecu and on 205/55 tyres. According to you lot with a bigger fmic you should go faster because your making more power right?

Guest Robo's

Well if i cant beat my time, i will go he!!

I havent got huge kw's, and my terminal speed is not alot either, give me more top end please..

On my runs, my car was pinging badly in 3rd and 4th. If i can stop the pinging and get some more rwkw, a good time will be on the cards. Traction is the key and some quick shifts!!

why dont you try the water injection kits that are sold at MRt, for 1000 dollars the aquamist will qaurentee your car wont ping through the gears at higher boost therefor giving you more power...... just a thoguht.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...