Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day everyone,

Up for sale is my GTi-R. This is a very reluctant sale as it was going to be a car I would hold onto for a very long time. I have a 350z as a daily and drive the GTi-R when I feel like some turbo :) At the moment, owning two cars is not very feasible for me as I'm still looking for a career and parent's place doesn't have much room, plus rego, insurance, fuel and maintenance on two jap cars is again not very feasible for me atm. I'm still unsure which one to hold on to, so I'll try selling one at a time and see which one sells. I'll put it on car sales soon.

Below are the car details:

A Genuine 1993 Pulsar GTi-R with Brand New Metallic Paint, 11 Months Rego, Tein Adjustable Coilovers, Alloy Wheels, Perfect Engine & Driveline, Solid Mounts etc etc etc...

* 1993 Nissan Pulsar N14 GTiR

* 5 Speed Manual

* 154,xxx

* SR20DET (~170KW STOCK)

* GTR Style Quad Throttle Body

* Turbo

* ATTESA - 4WD

* Air conditioning

* Power Windows

* Power Mirrors

* 11 Months Registration

Exterior:

* Brand New Paint (Old Paint was Dull) - Toyota Aurion Metallic Black - Very Rare and looks unreal

- Plastic Moulds/Door Handles/Number Plate Shroud/Scoop/Vents etc around car was removed/sanded and appropriate Primer applied.

Tedious process to ensure the plastics around the car look like the rest of the body

* Body very straight. No dents/damage

* Wheel Arch Moulds - All around

* Tinted Windows

* Driver & Passenger Side Weathershields

* Nissan Fog Lights

* Clear Side Indicators

* The NISSAN, PULSAR and GTi-R Badges for the rear will come with the car.

Engine:

* SplitFire Grounding Kit

* Platinum Spark Plugs

* NGK Ignition Leads

* HKS Super BOV

* Factory TMIC

* Full Turbo Back 3" Exhaust

* Solid Mounts (Pricey, Difference over stock mounts are like Day & Night). Hence Interior vibrates a little sometimes.

* Stock Rear Muffler made to mount the 3" pipe under the car (rare)

* Stock Airbox

- Also, Brand New Racer Pod with Adaptor

* Rebuilt Starter Motor

* Recently Synthetic Oil Change with oil filter

* Brand New Battery with 3 years warranty

Engine and Gearbox/Clutch in Perfect Condition. No unusual noises/crunches etc. This car has been owned

and cared for by mature owners. Engine has not been modded or boosted at all.

Audio:

* JVC CD/MP3 Player (AUX-In,iPod control, Bluetooth)

* Kicker Door Speakers

* JVC Rear Parcel Speakers

* 2-CH Rampage Amp

Interior:

* Momo Sports Steering Wheel

* Stock N14 Steering Wheel

* 3-into-1 Cigarette socket with USB

* Comes with Stock and Red Carbon Fibre Style Gear Knobs

* Dash looks brand new - No marks or cracks

* Driver & Passenger Door Black Vinyl Trim

* New Vinyl Gear Stick Gator

* Full Floor Mats

*** I can also include a Auto Headlight Kit and 3.5" Clip-On Rear View Mirror With AV IN (reverse camera etc) with camera ***

Security:

* 2 x SteelMate Alarm Remotes

* 2 x Original Keys

* SteelMate Remote Central Locking

* SteelMate Full Alarm with Remote Start

- Also Included but not connected:

* Remote Start

* Dual Motion Sensor - Senses Motion Inside & Outside while armed (radius adjustable)

* Audio Sensor - Glass breaking

( I can connect these if required)

Handling:

* ABS

* 4-Wheel Drive

* Tein Coilovers - Adjustable Height and Camber

* GoodRidge Front Braided Brake Lines

* GoodRidge Rear Braided Brake Lines

* GAB Front Strut Brace

* GAB Rear Strut Brace

* Underbody Control Arm Brace - Not Installed

* 16" ROH Mulit-Spoke Wheels with 205 Yokohama Tyres (Excellent Thread)

* Interior got dry cleaned recently

* Slip-On seat covers used to protect the seats (No tear, stains or burns)

* Engine Bay and Interior very Clean

* Always Run on V-Power

*Pictures were taken with Phone hence crappy quality.

Asking: $10,400 neg

Sorry, NO SWAPS. After a Cash Sale as I have another car already.

Selling due to no room for 2 cars.

Very reluctant sale :cry: .

If you are seriously interested, CALL ME. I have limited internet access but will try to catch up with posts :)

Contact: 0423 893 095

If I don't pick-up, send me a message and I'll get back to you.

Car is in S.E Melbourne

dsc00639pr.jpg

dsc00626qy.jpg

dsc00627j.jpg

dsc00628dc.jpg

dsc00633ap.jpg

dsc00629xu.jpg

dsc00630id.jpg

dsc00642v.jpg

dsc00649se.jpg

dsc00650wo.jpg

dsc00648b.jpg

dsc00455y.jpg

dsc00636en.jpg

dsc00646p.jpg

dsc00647ex.jpg

dsc00677ie.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355544-1993-gti-r-metallic-black/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...