Jump to content
SAU Community

Window Motor Reset Button, Fact Or Fiction?  

10 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

OK i have recently taken my window motor apart to clean the commutator, as it stopped working, and on replacing everything i found that the window was staying about 2"

down, so i used the reset procedure that posted on the US Infinity forum, which also seems to be the same as the 350Z reset.

Now to settle a difference of opinion, we have some people in the UK that disagree that this button exists, and say its just a blanking plug.

So what is your experience of this?

Edited by Tricky-Ricky

I've replaced both sides AND reset them using the reset button. Given the part number is identical for all countries and the part is also genuine Nissan I can only assume the button exists for all parts.

I've replaced both sides AND reset them using the reset button. Given the part number is identical for all countries and the part is also genuine Nissan I can only assume the button exists for all parts.

When i did the reset and held the button until the window went all the way up, i let go so i can then push the button but the window drops down an inch anyway.... When closing the door it only just closes the gap, at high speeds u can hear air coming in. Havnt been bothered to fix it as not at high speeds.... Any ideas?

Hi Mate,

Bought the 350 coupe a few months ago. When i first got it, if i pressed the button thats suppose to automaitically wind the window all the way up, it would wind all the way up and then wind down about 2 inches.

I read about the so called "button" and door my door panel off. after 1 hour of pulling all those black circle stickers off to try and find it (it ended up being the one right in the middle of the door) i saw what i thought was to be the button.

The wierd thing is it doesnt look or feel like an actual button, i kept pressing my thumb on it, but it didnt move in or give any indication it was a button or even doing anything. After pressing it in a few times and winding the window up and down, it eventually somehow reset and fixed the issue.

First off thanks to everybody who has taken the time to comment so far, be interested to hear further comments,

I an pretty satisfied that my window reset button works as its supposed to, although i do agree that it doesn't feel much like a button.

When i did the reset and held the button until the window went all the way up, i let go so i can then push the button but the window drops down an inch anyway.... When closing the door it only just closes the gap, at high speeds u can hear air coming in. Havnt been bothered to fix it as not at high speeds.... Any ideas?

The way i read the reset guide, and it appeared to work for me, was to wind the window all the way down, using to manual button IE not pull and let go,

and once down press and hold the reset button, while using the manual button procedure for closing, then let go the reset, and all should be well.

This should all be done with the door closed!

However if you have removed the motor or just the armature, and had to unwind the cable drum a little to take the tension off the motor drive,

i found that you had to rewind to the same position as removal or you end up with a window gap.

Edited by Tricky-Ricky

JDM models do have the reset button also. It worked for me. But sometimes you have to do it a few times before it fixes the problem. And good to know it's not just me that thinks the button doesn't feel like a button.. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...