Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, i need some professional help and opinions on the following kit

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-engine-rebuild-kits/nissan-rb25det-rebuild-kit

seems to be a nice cheap thing for a skyline, but being cheap, i'm a little sceptical about it.

Keen for the BBQ ash :thumbsup:

does your engine need work joe?? either way you need to pull the engine out to put that rebuild kit thru it. line boring etc for the main bearings cant be done in car, and they are never just a bolt in thing. so your looking at a full rebuild to put that stuff in. not sure on the price tho man, never looked into it.

I cleaned up under my house today...finally, now i can bring my beetle home and somehow shimmy it in underneath at a 90 degree angle to the other cars...and the doors

push it like a 200 series landcruiser thats run out of diesel on the gold coast highway... :thumbsup:

so you gotta put an unlicensed 15 year old at the wheel to steer so the adults can push...

lol, this sounds like a whole lot of hard work, and a good laugh if i was driving past :nyaanyaa:

Why even bother, just go steal a commodore. oh wait don't, thats more embarassing.

btw, for all the northerners (where ever to morayfield to scaboolture)

I will be holding a bbq at my place for a 'house warming shindig'

For all those guys ive met, and the ones i will soon are more then welcome to come over, food, drinks, clints singing voice.

Dates are yet to be organized, think of it as our first monthly meet and drink.

Since when did I sing?

bodo mate, i know the engine needs to be removed for the rebuild, however, i don't want to replace the engine, just do a forged rebuild to be able to take the power i want to put through it

yes well i want more power, and i can justify spend big dosh for a forged internals rebuild, but i want to see if this pack for $2000 is worth it or if it seems to good to be true

Not worth doing at this point, waste of money until you have done stage 1 mods, Stage 2 is where you start doing things like this. The stock crank and internals are good for around 300 rwkw's you will have no real power gain from doing this without a tune and a few supporting mods.

you would get more out of flowing your head.

Yay!, pod filter is in... new brake rotors and pads are sorted. ready for happy laps finally! no more earthquake brakes or steeringwheel shudder at high speeds :D if i can manage to wash my car tomorow im keen for westies tomorow, anyone else?

Edit: tomorow tomorow? lol tomorow

Edited by mumslayer

Not worth doing at this point, waste of money until you have done stage 1 mods, Stage 2 is where you start doing things like this. The stock crank and internals are good for around 300 rwkw's you will have no real power gain from doing this without a tune and a few supporting mods.

you would get more out of flowing your head.

Understandable mate, however, I'm looking at a rebuild for a few reasons, one, my engine has seen a rather large number of k's and as such think that a rebuild would be an idea for it, another reason is because I'm wanting to skip stage 1 upgrades and go straight to stage 2, which means a forged rebuild anyway, I might be wrong and I might be silly skipping stage 1 but to be honest, I have never seen the point for stage 1 mods

You guys play too much GT5 :P

na, played way to many NFS plus too much GT 1,2,3 & 5.

basically, if i'm going to be doing up my car, i don't want to start small and work my way up, i want to go to the top, as like smity42 said about GT5 this is the real world and we don't have any restrictions besides our wallet, so why bother starting small and going up, waste of money to me

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got a spare standard box sitting in the garage  I know it will come one day though, but it's driven pretty tamely on the four times a year it gets out... 
    • Big question… have you decided on a gearbox? Because it’s going to come… and a gearset ain’t going to do the job.    save your pennies 🤪
    • it was good to see our presence at GTR festival..hope to see more SAU at these events 
    • This is awesome.     
    • Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
×
×
  • Create New...