Jump to content
SAU Community

Has It Been Done? Single Cam Rb30 In Skyline

obsesv

By obsesv,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

obsesv Contributor

obsesv

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

lets get this striahgt EVERYTHING i have spoken about in this thread has been turbo. the only thing im talking about thats non turbo is the motor im planing on putting in my car. now relax your pussy flaps everyonethis has become ridiculous

Edited by obsesv
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

what i meant by my mates motor is non turbo is.. its a factory non turbo motor, with a turbo setup on it. im terribly sorry for wording that very wrong!

i was trying to get the point across at the strength of an internally standard rb30

ahh so you meant to say, non turbo bottom end?

having a non turbo bottom end really makes little difference to the equation but now we have that cleared up, we can continue, fully enlightened

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

lets get this striahgt EVERYTHING i have spoken about in this thread has been turbo. the only thing im talking about thats non turbo is the motor im planing on putting in my car. now relax your pussy flaps everyonethis has become ridiculous

The size of my pussy flaps is rediculous, this topic has nothing on that

obsesv Contributor

obsesv

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ahh so you meant to say, non turbo bottom end?

having a non turbo bottom end really makes little difference to the equation but now we have that cleared up, we can continue, fully enlightened

yes i meant its a non turbo bottom end, and head. wich doesnt really matter anyway cause the only difference is the cam which has been replaced anyway, but thats the extent of the headwork done to it.

i worded it badly :/

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

yes i meant its a non turbo bottom end, and head. wich doesnt really matter anyway cause the only difference is the cam which has been replaced anyway, but thats the extent of the headwork done to it.

i worded it badly :/

The pistons (comp ratio) is different also.

What Nismoid {edited for accuracy} said before was correct, though, you won't be able to make the chassis backwards compatible. You can put engines of equal vintage in but I'm pretty sure putting a less efficient engine into a newer car breaks all their rules

obsesv Contributor

obsesv

Posted
  • Author
Posted

look im sick of arguing with everyone in here, i hope ive corrected all my mistakes by saying everything ive previously talked about has been turbo. big power n/a rb's just doesnt happen.

now, if we want to talk about my car. the idea of putting an rb30 in came to me because as ive said i can get one for basically nothing and i can do all the work myself. being an apprentice i dont earn lots of money so i want to do it on the cheap, and n/a rb25 is hard to find in its self, and expensive when you do find one. im not looking for performance out of this car at ALL while it is n/a, i just want a nice cruiser. due to previously having a turbo car and being on my p's i have a daily driver so i have plenty of time to do all this. SO in summary, an rb30 is the cheapest and quickest way to make my skyline n/a, then when i want to step it up all ive gotta do is chuck a twin cam head on and away i go

if anyone else wants anything cleared up feel free to ask!

obsesv Contributor

obsesv

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The pistons (comp ratio) is different also.

What Nismoid {edited for accuracy} said before was correct, though, you won't be able to make the chassis backwards compatible. You can put engines of equal vintage in but I'm pretty sure putting a less efficient engine into a newer car breaks all their rules

yeah the head gasket in it is thicker thus making it the same as a factory turbo rb30

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

look im sick of arguing with everyone in here, i hope ive corrected all my mistakes by saying everything ive previously talked about has been turbo. big power n/a rb's just doesnt happen.

now, if we want to talk about my car. the idea of putting an rb30 in came to me because as ive said i can get one for basically nothing and i can do all the work myself. being an apprentice i dont earn lots of money so i want to do it on the cheap, and n/a rb25 is hard to find in its self, and expensive when you do find one. im not looking for performance out of this car at ALL while it is n/a, i just want a nice cruiser. due to previously having a turbo car and being on my p's i have a daily driver so i have plenty of time to do all this. SO in summary, an rb30 is the cheapest and quickest way to make my skyline n/a, then when i want to step it up all ive gotta do is chuck a twin cam head on and away i go

if anyone else wants anything cleared up feel free to ask!

If you want to do it and your budget allows, then ring DOT/RTA and see if they will allow it. As far as being ABLE to be done....sure it can. Go for it.

You can always rip the head off and go twin cam later if the peer pressure gets too much.

obsesv Contributor

obsesv

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The pistons (comp ratio) is different also.

What Nismoid {edited for accuracy} said before was correct, though, you won't be able to make the chassis backwards compatible. You can put engines of equal vintage in but I'm pretty sure putting a less efficient engine into a newer car breaks all their rules

yeah im aware of that, its not my biggest worry

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Go and read my post.

Then read it again.

Then continue reading

The car is BUILD PLATED as TURBO.

- You cannot put a RB30E into a R32 and be legal if my recollection of laws is correct (I'm usually pretty on the money), meaning RB20E and RB25DE are your choices etc. You cannot put an older motor, into a newer chassis.

- You need to RE-ENGINEER it, that is not free to begin with. They might also emissions test you, again not free.

It's not a simple case of "motor out, motor in - I've beaten the system".

It might pay you to investigate the laws before getting wild ideas.

obsesv Contributor

obsesv

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If you want to do it and your budget allows, then ring DOT/RTA and see if they will allow it. As far as being ABLE to be done....sure it can. Go for it.

You can always rip the head off and go twin cam later if the peer pressure gets too much.

yeah ill look into it. ill see if its able to be engineered or something.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...