Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

Car: R33

ECU: Vipec V44 PNP

Having a few issues with a Vipec ECU, The ECU isnt priming the fuel pump when ignition is switched on ( Using standard pump as a lift pump into a surge tank thats runing a bosch 044 ) The 044 is switched through its own relay that uses the trigger wire to the standard fuel pump as the trigger for the relay powering the 044. No problem here as with the stock ecu pluged in it primes no problem. So back to the vipec ecu, Once you start cranking the engine after about 1 seccond the fuel pumps start working and then it will fire about 5 secconds later, I have been through every dam setting in the vipec software and no matter what i change nothing makes them prime at ignition on. Under the aux 6 output that is titles "fuel pump" the settings show the usial high and low polarity (set to low, when set to high the fuel pumps will run all the time) originally the prime time box was not there at all but when i turned the fuel pump setting off completly then turned it on again it had the prime time setting there which was set to the standard 3 secconds. after that was there F4 to save settings turn off......switch to ignition and nothing, connect to ecu to check settings, settings are still how i stored them but still no priming.

Another issue is the tacho sweep function, its set to tacho sweep on yet does not work no matter what i do ether. Also if i turn to ignition on then turn off again the ignition will not turn off even when the key is completly removed from the ignition. The only way to get the ignition to turn off is to start the car then shut it down again. I think this may be being caused by something that i need to look into and is not linked to the other issues im having.

This is the seccond vipec ecu im on at the moment as the first one had a defective power supply and after runing for a while on the dyno it was shut down then when tried to restart nothing. car was completly dead however when the first vipec was installed the tacho sweep worked and fuel pumps primed.

So does anyone have any knowledge on other settings somewhere else that may be stopping these functions from working?

Cheers,

Jack

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358008-fuel-pumps-not-priming-with-vipec/
Share on other sites

UPDATE:

I found if you turn the car over and just before it starts turn the key back to the off position the ignition wont stay on. During cranking with a stuffed battery the voltage would obveiously drop alot and it would strugle to turn over, when this happend the tacho sweep and fuel pumps started priming as normal but when a fully charged battery is used they dont work.

Jack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes that’s what im trying to decide. Should I do stock gtt box or enclosed or open pod. 
    • Also, I note OP is in Melbourne, which begs the question... are you aware of how illegal your car will be with a turbo, and intercooler and any sort of filter change? I don't know how you can get past the "2 intake mods" "rule" that seems to exist in Vic. Fully engineered might or might not get you there.
    • If you have a turbo... then the ducting holes I used to feed the pod are not available because your intercooler likely uses them. If you have an intercooler, your IAT's are going to be goverened by how good your intercooler setup is. I'm yet to really see anyone check IAT with a snorkel/boxed pod/proper CAI versus and unshielded pod. It would be interesting! But I suspect that the differences would not be so noticeable as if you were N/A as the intercooler is where the air is being cooled.. and out in front where the FMIC would be is a pretty good spot for it.. When I was turbo I pushed the stock GTT box as far as I could and made some pretty good power out of it, and noticed on the street I never made the same power/boost. Then I did a before and after run with a pod filter versus the box and picked up about 9PSI from the same boost duty cycle and about 50KW instantly. I never ran the stock box again, and recently removed it for my N/A setup. The box is restrictive to a degree - Even with the V8 setup I noticed I picked up power by removing the box completely, so punching holes from the bottom of it to get air from the passenger guard *helps* but the most effective one in my case was simply having the ducts, a pod, and no box around it. In my experience, *more* air was better than cold air. The air (with ducts) will be cooled off as you start moving, and especially if you start moving fast (a race track). It actually moves around quite a bit as you can see.  
    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
×
×
  • Create New...