Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Greetings

I have had a scout though the threads but can't find what I am looking for.

I live around 250k from Suzuka and will be going around once a month this year with some other locals from our workshop.

I want to run Direzza 03G H (hard) compound rather than R compound (medium) as track is far away and want them to last a bit

Questions are as I have to drive to the track and back on them (have street rims with Direzza 101's for street use.) whats the best track pressure and transit pressure for these tyres.

We do 30min x 3 sessions.

I was running 36-38 psi on Star specs (I only buy Dunlops best bang for my Yen)

Any help most appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359072-dunlop-direzza-03g-hard-or-medium/
Share on other sites

Hi Mike,

I use the 03G hard on the sprint track at Queensland raceway. I also drive on the to and from the track (about 40km) I do this around 5-6 times a year however sessions are much shorter around 6 minutes with laps under the 60second mark. The tyres last me all year.

Pressure, the 3G's like 30-32psi hot so start with whatever you need for them to come up to this. I suspect 30 minutes of racing you'll need to start them pretty soft but id only be guessing but 22 might be a good start. I have different starting pressure for each tyre to suit QR, the lowest is 23 and highest is 28. So that should give you some idea.

Start with 22 and come in after say 5 laps as they should be stabilised by then ad make sure you have a temp probe or gun and change the camber accordingly.

Hope that helps?

Hi Mike,

I use the 03G hard on the sprint track at Queensland raceway. I also drive on the to and from the track (about 40km) I do this around 5-6 times a year however sessions are much shorter around 6 minutes with laps under the 60second mark. The tyres last me all year.

Pressure, the 3G's like 30-32psi hot so start with whatever you need for them to come up to this. I suspect 30 minutes of racing you'll need to start them pretty soft but id only be guessing but 22 might be a good start. I have different starting pressure for each tyre to suit QR, the lowest is 23 and highest is 28. So that should give you some idea.

Start with 22 and come in after say 5 laps as they should be stabilised by then ad make sure you have a temp probe or gun and change the camber accordingly.

Hope that helps?

Thanks for your advice Simonster.

I did not think you would run them that low initially for fear of rolling them of the rim but they have a rigid side wall I guess.

What sort of camber do you run?

I will get an infrared gun for sure.

Thanks once again.

Thanks for your advice Simonster.

I did not think you would run them that low initially for fear of rolling them of the rim but they have a rigid side wall I guess.

The sidewalls are very stiff compared to a road tyre, so no issue. I really swerve from side to side on the out lap to generate some heat, i did the same thing each time and my pressures are always spot on at the end of a run.

I suspect suzuka would be similar as far as camber goes but if you're in a GTR you may need a bit more on the front, but the temp will tell you.Also if you can't get it to turn toe the rear out at least 1mm each side this will help it point and get to the apex if you have done everything else and she's still understeering. This way you can keep some sensible camber on the front which will help with braking.

What sort of camber do you run?

-3.5 on the front -2 on the rear. but that's what i need to run to get and even temp on the tyre face for that track. It will be different at different tracks :thumbsup:

Hope it goes well!!

Edited by Simonster

suzuka is a great track. if you are not too worried about outright times, go the hards but the mediums will definitely give faster times. also depends what time of the year you are there. it's pretty cold in winter/autumn so if you're going in the cold months you may find the hards don't get enough heat into them to be useful in which case again you'll want mediums.

for transit to and from the track I would run around 34psi. on the track somewhere between 30 and 34psi hot will be what works. need a bit of experimentation to see what works for you. depending on ambient and track temps the tyres will come up by different pressures. maybe start with 25-26psi first, do 2 flying laps them come in and check the pressures. yes temp across the tyre is important, try to get it as even as possible. the infra-red heat guns are ok, but for type temps are probe is much better.

most of all, have fun. Suzuka is one of the best tracks in the world, quite fast but also quite technical and challenging. I know quite a few guys in that area (people from Voltex suzuka). it's a nice place. Hopefully you get to do the full track layout, the short layout is ok, but not the same. :)

suzuka is a great track. if you are not too worried about outright times, go the hards but the mediums will definitely give faster times. also depends what time of the year you are there. it's pretty cold in winter/autumn so if you're going in the cold months you may find the hards don't get enough heat into them to be useful in which case again you'll want mediums.

for transit to and from the track I would run around 34psi. on the track somewhere between 30 and 34psi hot will be what works. need a bit of experimentation to see what works for you. depending on ambient and track temps the tyres will come up by different pressures. maybe start with 25-26psi first, do 2 flying laps them come in and check the pressures. yes temp across the tyre is important, try to get it as even as possible. the infra-red heat guns are ok, but for type temps are probe is much better.

most of all, have fun. Suzuka is one of the best tracks in the world, quite fast but also quite technical and challenging. I know quite a few guys in that area (people from Voltex suzuka). it's a nice place. Hopefully you get to do the full track layout, the short layout is ok, but not the same. :)

The sidewalls are very stiff compared to a road tyre, so no issue. I really swerve from side to side on the out lap to generate some heat, i did the same thing each time and my pressures are always spot on at the end of a run.

I suspect suzuka would be similar as far as camber goes but if you're in a GTR you may need a bit more on the front, but the temp will tell you.Also if you can't get it to turn toe the rear out at least 1mm each side this will help it point and get to the apex if you have done everything else and she's still understeering. This way you can keep some sensible camber on the front which will help with braking.

-3.5 on the front -2 on the rear. but that's what i need to run to get and even temp on the tyre face for that track. It will be different at different tracks :thumbsup:

Hope it goes well!!

Simonster thanks for all the great tips and advice I will put it to good use. :cheers:

suzuka is a great track. if you are not too worried about outright times, go the hards but the mediums will definitely give faster times. also depends what time of the year you are there. it's pretty cold in winter/autumn so if you're going in the cold months you may find the hards don't get enough heat into them to be useful in which case again you'll want mediums.

for transit to and from the track I would run around 34psi. on the track somewhere between 30 and 34psi hot will be what works. need a bit of experimentation to see what works for you. depending on ambient and track temps the tyres will come up by different pressures. maybe start with 25-26psi first, do 2 flying laps them come in and check the pressures. yes temp across the tyre is important, try to get it as even as possible. the infra-red heat guns are ok, but for type temps are probe is much better.

most of all, have fun. Suzuka is one of the best tracks in the world, quite fast but also quite technical and challenging. I know quite a few guys in that area (people from Voltex suzuka). it's a nice place. Hopefully you get to do the full track layout, the short layout is ok, but not the same. :)

Thanks Beer Baron, My car can go a lot faster than I can drive it at this stage. So am just out to try and improve my er lack of skills... I had thought about the mediums but did not want to wear them out driving to and from the track. Going there in June but have a few runs planned in August and September also . Probably hard is best.

Its the full 5K track and its gonna be a great day. :cheers:

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...