Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I am looking to sell or swap my White R34 GTT manual coupe,

For sale price is $14,990.

I would swap for a cheaper car (Preferably an R32 GTST) with cash my way (Roughly $10k).

I am getting married in July so I need to downgrade unfortunately sad.gif

She has been a great car so far and I will have trouble letting go of her!

I'm on the Gold Coast, this is the cheapest R34 GTT manual coupe for sale on the Gold Coast!

Spec's are:

R34 GTT

1998

White

Manual

Coupe

176XXX k's on the clock

- Splitfire coilpacks

- TurboTech Boost Tee running 10psi

- Turbo Timer

- GReddy PE2 Cat back exhaust

- Catco 3" highflow cat

- JJR bellmouth Front & Dump pipe

- lowered suspension

- xenon lights

- Rays Nismo LMGT2 rims w/ deeper dish on the rear (bit of gutter scrape on rims and paint is flaking off)

- Apexi Pod

post-72359-0-33514400-1301441042_thumb.jpg

post-72359-0-65646200-1301441061_thumb.jpg

post-72359-0-50168100-1301441079_thumb.jpg

post-72359-0-87089800-1301441128_thumb.jpg

post-72359-0-74583600-1301441147_thumb.jpg

She has a minor dint on the rear bumper, nothing major, as well as on the front bumper (didn't see a massive tow bar on the back of an old jaguar)

Bit of paint off the bottom of the front bumper, as well as general stone chips on bonnet.

Most of these R34's sell for around $18,000 to $20,000!

The reason this one is so cheap is because of the higher k's on the clock and also because of the minor dints and scratches aforementioned.

car is advertised on casales.com.au:

Click here

And is also posted in the QLD section:

Click Here

Reply, PM me, or email me at:

[email protected]

First person to see it will buy!

Cheers.

Edited by Jay11
  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Have had some interest but no one has come to see the car as of yet,

I'm convinced that if you do come and see it you will buy it because you will realise it should be selling for more than $14,990!

Shoot me an email and I'll give you my contact details so that you can come have a look at the car.

It will not disappoint you I promise that!

Matey... First read the rules.

Theres cheap ones you can pick up for $5000 -$6000.

If you're not gonna enquire about my car I'll ask you to not comment in my post.

Cheers, matey...

  • 2 weeks later...

BUMP,

Had a guy look at the car on Saturday,

He's pretty keen to buy but he has to wait for insurance stuff from his old car.

I need this gone ASAP so come check it out before he buys it!

Name: josh

State:

Email: [email protected]

Home phone: 0266748521

Mobile phone:

Work phone:

Message:

15k Dreaming give you 8

^^^^How's the offer this drop kick gave me from carsales haha!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...