Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have standard rb26dett engine on gtr33 with bleed valve, power fc, adj cams, high flow 3 3/4' exhaust and just got a pair of -9's from Osaka Imports today for $1500

Just wondering what kW am i looking at once the turbo's and dump pipes are installed....

and how much without the dump pipes.....

been told that by installing dump pipes, it makes a difference....

need to know what other supporting minor mods can help to increase the power......

thanks guys :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/359207-gtr-modification/
Share on other sites

have standard rb26dett engine

Your first concern should be reliability and power being well and truely second. Once all bolted together get a good tuner to sort out a reliable tune.

As for the dump pipe difference, I guess it depends which dumps you have bought - sure they can make a difference but by how much depends on how good they are.

280AwKw would be safe, look upwards of 320AwKw but less reliable, depends how the car is tuned and where the power comes on....no point having 320 when your power is upward of 8000rpm for eg. 280-290 would be suffice with the set up and parts you have.

280AwKw would be safe, look upwards of 320AwKw but less reliable, depends how the car is tuned and where the power comes on....no point having 320 when your power is upward of 8000rpm for eg. 280-290 would be suffice with the set up and parts you have.

Yeah, im looking around 300 mark atleast....will see once it go on the tune....

  • 2 weeks later...

I definately agree with Ant97GTR though, there is a big difference in making big power and making it and still keeping the reliability, take to a tuner who knows these cars inside out!

Where did you take yours to?

Many people told me that with the -9 on stock motor will be around 280 to 300 kW

I wonder how urs made 300+!!!

very concern and will like to know if you did anything else to yours....

Where did you take yours to?

Many people told me that with the -9 on stock motor will be around 280 to 300 kW

I wonder how urs made 300+!!!

very concern and will like to know if you did anything else to yours....

Mine had a built engine, head work, cams, cam gears, 4" exh from front pipe back.

I have seen same setups making 290, friend of mine in his R32 GTR is making 328 with more boost, was tuned from a place in NSW just before he bought it, so i would say a little more boost and head work makes the difference.

Simon from NT Performance Turbocharging in Footscray, they had built some pretty serious GTR's and GTS-T's thats why i took mine there, if your keen i can pass their number on and you can have a chat to them about what was done.

I dare say that yours with head work perhaps a slightly bigger exhaust would make more

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...