Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah Pete from PLMS Developments told me that the V35 stock ECU is completely untuneable except for a Cobb system - and the USA Cobb distributors told me that the ECU wiring is subtley different between the G35 and V35, so would not work :( .... I will however get around to fitting my SAFCII one day so at least I can mess with the a/f ratios.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360181-tuners/page/2/#findComment-5760435
Share on other sites

Trying to see if I can get a tuned ECU as a first step, Jetwreck speaks highly of Nismo ECU wih Emanage, would love to go the same. HKS is just too expensive and no tuners in SA :(

If you can find one, and you dont have to sell your kidney for it, it'd be a great step in the right direction. Rare as hens teeth though! Its a shame about the HKS, but thats fine; you'll hit the limitations of the gear box before you've maxed out the gains that you can get from the emanage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360181-tuners/page/2/#findComment-5760461
Share on other sites

Yeah Pete from PLMS Developments told me that the V35 stock ECU is completely untuneable except for a Cobb system - and the USA Cobb distributors told me that the ECU wiring is subtley different between the G35 and V35, so would not work :( .... I will however get around to fitting my SAFCII one day so at least I can mess with the a/f ratios.

Did no one in Japan do work on them? The 'big' tuning houses all worked out how to crack the M35 ECU and reprogram/remap to support appropriate mods.. but most of them want your car to do the tuning on OR charge through the roof for the services with only a very vague description of what the outcome will be.

My car had a high flowed turbo installed, and I dyno'd it at the last SAU:SA Dyno day with the stock ECU it had 125awkw.. a week later we ran it again with my Impul ECU and got 175awkw; but its a mixed bag if you go for anything other than an aftermarket Nismo ECU for us :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360181-tuners/page/2/#findComment-5760466
Share on other sites

Sadly because the V35 doesn't sport a snail, no Japanese houses took them on in terms of tuning, racing, styling or basically anything. Sure there are some Jap bits, but nearly every single thing I have bought for my V35 is out of the USA, where the tuning scene is huge.

Hell, even when they briefly ran some R/V35 cars in the JGTC they ran VQ30DETTs in them, rather than our beautiful VQ35s (the VQ30DETT was later replaced by the VK45DE) .... if only they had turbo's the V35 they would be an amazing thing .... pretty muh everyone that has done an aftermarket turbo or supercharger kit on them has cracked 300rwkw with relative ease.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360181-tuners/page/2/#findComment-5760487
Share on other sites

If you can find one, and you dont have to sell your kidney for it, it'd be a great step in the right direction. Rare as hens teeth though! Its a shame about the HKS, but that's fine; you'll hit the limitations of the gear box before you've maxed out the gains that you can get from the emanage.

That's pretty much what I worked out, and I'm not after big power really. I'll try and get an ECU upgrade, maybe just a reflash even, then worry about a piggyback when the arguments in the Stagea section are finished and we have a winner :P

Why was the V35 so much bigger in the states than Japan? Seems odd...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360181-tuners/page/2/#findComment-5760695
Share on other sites

That's pretty much what I worked out, and I'm not after big power really. I'll try and get an ECU upgrade, maybe just a reflash even, then worry about a piggyback when the arguments in the Stagea section are finished and we have a winner :P

Good plan :thumbsup:

Why was the V35 so much bigger in the states than Japan? Seems odd...

Because it was sold as the Infinity G35 as opposed to the Nissan V35 :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360181-tuners/page/2/#findComment-5760729
Share on other sites

Yep, it was a combination of the Infiniti brand/badging, and the fact that they don't have R32/33/34 GTRs over there to overwhelm the V35/G35 (there are a handful of R32/33/34 private imports in the USA but even these have been deemeed to be illegal in recent times).

In Japan the V35 is considered slow, but in the USA a 3.5L V6 that can do sub-6 seconds 0-100km and high 13 second 1/4 mile is an attractive proposition - especially in a semi-luxury car with leather, sat-nav, Brembos etc etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360181-tuners/page/2/#findComment-5760863
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...