Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so at low speeds, especially in stop / start traffic, whenever I give a slight bit of acceleration to get the car moving, I hear this 'squishing' noise from the rear of the car just as i let the clutch out..

Then whilst gently accelerating in traffic i.e gas on/off etc, if i stop accelerating before 20km/h or so it makes this slight metal tap noise (only once) but if i tap the gas again it will make the same 'clink' or noise.

I noticed it about 12 months ago, drained and replaced the diff oil - didnt quite go away but it made a difference noise wise.. the last month or so the noise has got a little bit worse. The car doesnt seem to be affected performance wise.

any ideas? I'd get a video / audio but the car is too loud

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/360239-r33-diff-problem/
Share on other sites

yeah that pretty normal smell wise. Maybe stick a bottle of Fiction Modifying additive to see if that fixes your problem. I use it in my 2-way to stop it clunking and grinding, i use penrite additive but chryler-jeep and ford motorsport also make it

  • 2 weeks later...

it maybe a thought to check your bearings for your rear wheel hubs. i had same issue and one of the bearings was farkd.

replaced that and it was all fine.

also check your cv joints for play as that can do it too

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...