Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Tried Clarke rubber and Kanga rubber to see if they have similar profile? They come to mind as suppliers worth asking.

I'm keen on replacing mine too, but I'd just want a new rubber not the whole thing.

Pretty keen on the rubber pending price. I was in the process of painting and restoring a spare cowl for just this purpose, but so far have been unable to find a replacement rubber strip.

Im still working on it, its a bit of a slow process...

I gave them a sample, cut of from my own rubber strip, which the supplier apparantly 'misplaced' so I gave them another and the supplier is sending back their closest match (all done via snail mail) should be a couple of days and they will give me a call and I'll go out and pick up the sample to see how it fits and gets some photos, measurements, comparisons etc... and pricing of course...

  • 1 month later...

nope Ive had no luck in finding a replacement rubber strip, only the OEM replacement cowling @ $220 each...

so I remove the deteriorated rubber strip, sanded and sprayed the cowling plastic & the wiper arms in satin black, looks good...

nope Ive had no luck in finding a replacement rubber strip, only the OEM replacement cowling @ $220 each...

so I remove the deteriorated rubber strip, sanded and sprayed the cowling plastic & the wiper arms in satin black, looks good...

Got any pics? :) If it look's good I might just do that.

Got any pics? :) If it look's good I might just do that.

it does look good... I fully recommend everyone to do it...

I'll see what I can do about pics, but pretty much they are going to show a nicely satin black coated version of what you have...lol...

just make sure you prep them well before painting....

Correct . I will try over weekend to post a pic haven't done so before.

Hey mate sorry can't get pic upload having sync problems. But it pretty straight forward I did my brothers today all you do is remove the factory silicon/selant with thin flat head, wipe clean, squeeze black silicon into the channel of the strip that sits under cowl just don't o.d. it, push seal into place,wipe excess with wet finger or rag take your pick, place a weight on seal and allow to dry..... Voila.

are you saying you stuck the rubber strip down with silicon?

pics?

 animan, on 08 July 2011 - 04:05 PM, said:

Correct . I will try over weekend to post a pic haven't done so before.

Hey mate sorry can't get pic upload having sync problems. But it pretty straight forward I did my brothers today all you do is remove the factory silicon/selant with thin flat head, wipe clean, squeeze black silicon into the channel of the strip that sits under cowl just don't o.d. it, push seal into place,wipe excess with wet finger or rag take your pick, place a weight on seal and allow to dry..... Voila.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...