Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got defected today driving my uncomplied unregisted r32 gtr from the mechanics back to my house on a permit.

I had no front bar because it was at the crash repairs getting some cracks fixed, and whilst i was driving it home my front right indicator fell off unknowingly.

the officer deamed the car unroadworthy and defected me. the car will be getting complied sometime in the near future maybe 3-6 months.

will this defect have to be removed (rectified) before i go to get complied or when its getting complied or after? or is it just nothing to worry about?

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361051-defect-on-permit/
Share on other sites

There is a dedicated defect thread in this forum for questions like these. Otherwise we'll have hundreds of defect threads from various posters.

Expect this thread to be locked and/or removed.

You'll find your answer in the defect thread.

:thumbsup:

I wouldn't worry too much - I know this isnt the exact same situation but me and a mate of mine both took our R32's through Regency around the same time for a RB25DET conversion, his was defected, mine was not. I don't believe there was any difference at all in how the cars were checked and the owners treated.

Get the defect notice signed off once you go through so you can hand it into the rego office to get rego for your car.

You might have to pay more for it though as it's meant to be a different type of inspection to your ID one to gain rego.

Easy done though.

I would have laughed at the cop, as the car is uncomplied it is, and always was not compliant with ADR's and therefore is defectable. But as the car has to be complied you are in effect clearing the defect when you get it complied, just rip the sticker off, it means nothing in this case.

I would have laughed at the cop, as the car is uncomplied it is, and always was not compliant with ADR's and therefore is defectable. But as the car has to be complied you are in effect clearing the defect when you get it complied, just rip the sticker off, it means nothing in this case.

true.... but leave the sticker. its not worth the immenant fine that you would get

I would have laughed at the cop, as the car is uncomplied it is, and always was not compliant with ADR's and therefore is defectable. But as the car has to be complied you are in effect clearing the defect when you get it complied, just rip the sticker off, it means nothing in this case.

Rip the sticker off if you never plan on regoing the car but leave it on if you do plan on getting rego.

They would have defected the vin number of the car so he would need to get it cleared off the system so he would need to get his defect paper work sorted at the same time and removing the sticker wouldn't be a good idea haha.

as the car hasn't been complied, there is no VIN in the system. The VIN the car will end up with will be an 1MPORT xxx xxxx VIN which the car hasn't got yet.

Anyhow there is no harm in leaving the sticker on but i still would have laughed at the copper.

as the car hasn't been complied, there is no VIN in the system. The VIN the car will end up with will be an 1MPORT xxx xxxx VIN which the car hasn't got yet.

Anyhow there is no harm in leaving the sticker on but i still would have laughed at the copper.

Those VIN numbers were issued with tho old Import scheme, It will be given a VIN, 6U90 - then your chassis no, more Zeros added to to take it up to 17 digits if required.

Those VIN numbers were issued with tho old Import scheme, It will be given a VIN, 6U90 - then your chassis no, more Zeros added to to take it up to 17 digits if required.

so if my vin/chassis numbers are in the system with a defect to there name, when they add onto the numbers for compliance it wont show that it has a defect on it when i go to get rego?

Thanks.

so if my vin/chassis numbers are in the system with a defect to there name, when they add onto the numbers for compliance it wont show that it has a defect on it when i go to get rego?

Thanks.

Im pretty sure when you take the car in for inspection, it wont be "on the system" yet as a car on the road. Doing the roadworthy to get rego is clearing it at the same time also, so once inspected, they would then add you and at the same time it would be cleared of any defect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...