Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Check your cooling system, Clint.

Only a matter of time before you blow a gasket or something.

Oil temps shouldn't be high with just regular driving even with the ambient temps we're getting.

The old 180 sat perfectly fine in 40degree heat not moving with the aircon on...until she started overheating after a thrash and then the Koyo went in :P

Rad flush and fresh coolant + thermostat will get her all nice and purty again ;)

Ah that's good...yeh the oil does creep up a bit on these hot days man :/

Oh nice! That must've been one of the two resident 35's we have here. Man imagine driving that thing around all day knowing you got so much f**king power :O

Thanks guys. Coolant temp never moved, was just oil temp got higher than normal.

Saw a gun metal/dark purple 35 pulling onto Margaret on Boxing day. Was totally jello

I don't know how accurate the R34 gauge is for oil. It could be out of whack.

However, if it is correct, then elevated oil temps can be linked with the inability of your cooling system to keep temps in check.

The nissan water temp gauge is the most inaccurate thing ever. Once it indicates things are hot, you've cooked the motor :yes:

I was lucky enough to catch my gauge in the process of getting hot...it was only 3/4 of the way but by then, even my intercooler cold pipe too hot to touch. Managed to crawl the old girl home with the heater on full whack to help with temps.

New coolant and thermostat (optional) is cheap. Cheaper still that there are mates out there willing to help.

1 weekend without alcohol is all it costs LOLOL :ph34r:

Ah that's good...yeh the oil does creep up a bit on these hot days man :/

Oh nice! That must've been one of the two resident 35's we have here. Man imagine driving that thing around all day knowing you got so much f**king power :O

I'll be owning one of these after this weekend HA ;)

Moving into our new place at Laidley on thursday, guess I'd better start trolling this thread more. Hopefully I can get the 32 fixed and come on some cruises soon. Stupid ceramic turbos.

Sounds good bro, I'm in the next town over at Gatton. if someone waves at you from a Red and Black 33 that'd be me :)

Finally moved in and internet connected, getting car moved out here next week so I can start ripping it apart ready to replace dead bits. If I see an orange and black 33 I'll be yelling 'abomination' and pointing.

Finally moved in and internet connected, getting car moved out here next week so I can start ripping it apart ready to replace dead bits. If I see an orange and black 33 I'll be yelling 'abomination' and pointing.

You have just become...

One of us. :D

Now sign up as a member :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...