Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all spent the last few nights after work putting a 1996 nissan skyline gtst engine and loom in my r32 gts everythings hooked up and working fine just a small lil problem it wont start ive read theres a grey wirer that is the power feed for injectors were is it or could it be something else? im not to familia with nissans but it sounded so easy when i decided to do it all lol any help would be wicked other wise im gona have to take it to a sparky.

regards marty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361506-help-please/
Share on other sites

hey all spent the last few nights after work putting a 1996 nissan skyline gtst engine and loom in my r32 gts everythings hooked up and working fine just a small lil problem it wont start ive read theres a grey wirer that is the power feed for injectors were is it or could it be something else? im not to familia with nissans but it sounded so easy when i decided to do it all lol any help would be wicked other wise im gona have to take it to a sparky.

regards marty

Marty, if it is a 1996 model then it will be a series 2 which has a single common power feed to the plugs and injectors. The series 1 have separate power feeds. Easiest way to tell is the series 2 only has one relay near the ECU whereas the series 1 has 2. The R32 loom receives the main power feeds from the plug near the power steering reservoir whereas the RB25 loom receives the main power feeds from plugs in the cabin near the ECU. I have previously posted a wiring guide for this conversion and although it is written around the series 1 it should give you a clearer idea of what needs to be done.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361506-help-please/#findComment-5773751
Share on other sites

hey yes it is a series 2 rb25det i used the full r33 loom that was in the wrecked car i got it from started fine and drove sweet as now that its all been put into the r32 all the dash and heaters etc work after ive adapted the plugs car turns over just wont start. i used the full r33 loom and ecu from the r33 so the injector power feed shouldnt matter am i right? sorry im a little bit confused to whats goin on any help with something i might have missed or any body that has done this before thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361506-help-please/#findComment-5774237
Share on other sites

hey all thanks for the help have got it going now after looking at photos of a engine bay online found 2 plugs the same in the engine bay one was pluged in the other was not swaped them over and started first pop. has any body out there put 19 x 8.5 on the front and 19 x 9.5 on the bak of a r32 i have got a guard roller so that will help a bit just cant find any pics online any were biggest ive seen are 18s

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361506-help-please/#findComment-5775324
Share on other sites

ok they might

i have 17x9-255's +55 on the rear and the inner face of the rim just clear's the rear tie rods by like only 1 mm

so your rims are 1/2 inch wider but have 15 mm less offset than mine, if they do they will b heaps close

i will post a pic tomoz if u wanna see how close they are.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361506-help-please/#findComment-5777104
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...