Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Owned this car since I was 18yrs old, now turning 25. I am the 1st owner to own it in australia and was bought 100% stock with 70,000kms on it paying about $20,000 for it. Only reason for selling is because i no longer drive it and it just sits in the garage collecting dust. In the 6yrs or so of owning it, the car has never broken down or let me down. I have put about $10,000 into the car in engine mods and paint. Car has never been raced, thrashed, used for burnouts/drifting etc.It was just a little project for me. Serviced every 5000kms with Motul turbo lite oil, and only 98octane fuel is used.

Car has a Apexi Power FC with handcontroller- $1500

* Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller- $800

* SARD 550cc Injectors- $700

* Garrett 2871r turbo ( RB SERIES )

* Front mount Intercooler - $700

* Z32 AFM - $300

* After market coil packs ( super spark ) - $600

* Full exhaust with highflow cat - $1200

* Bosh 040 fuel pump - $250

* ECU tuned by Chasers - $1000

* Front Slotted/Cross Drilled discs - $200

* Top Secret front coil overs which need replacing / rebuilding and rear Nismo coilovers which are still good.

* Full respray in original colour 12mths ago - $2500.-Has a few stone chips on the front bar now, and some light scratches here and there, nothing major.

How fast is it? Never taken it down the 1/4mile but r33's with the same setup normally do high 12's.

Only faults that i know of are the front coil overs need changing, and mirrors no longer work, they were working fine before the car went in to get painted so im pretty confident that something has not been plugged in again. Boot carpet is dirty has a lot of oil stains etc on it from me throwing my 4WD bits in there.

This is a rare model of the R33, has the diff out of a V-Spec GTR ( active lsd ) and also has ABS which is hard to get in these models. car made 241 rwkw on about 18psi, goes really well. I dont think it needs any more power as it has no grip through the first few gears anyway!!

$13,500 with reg till 7 Jul, You get your own RW- Please call me on 0416 292 234 to arrange to see it etc. Alex

post-21268-0-01619000-1303351780_thumb.jpg

post-21268-0-90265300-1303351874_thumb.jpg

post-21268-0-07978600-1303351937_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/361670-r33-gtst-241rwkw-forsale-melb/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...