Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I just purchased Clutch Kit, Exedy Extra Extra Heavy Duty Button for an RB25det, Manufacture Part No: Exedy NSK-7056HHHDB with the following specs

  • Diameter: 240.00mm
  • Spline OD: 25.50mm
  • No of Teeth: 24
  • Pressure Plate Type: Push
  • Pressure Plate Clamp Rating: 14,680N / 1,497kgf / 3,300lbf
  • *Power Holding Capability (At Flywheel): 700hp / 523kw

Reason for purchase is my current button clutch slips badly in 3rd gear when car is under load, so I thought I would upgrade to something better.

I have also ordered a Nismo clutch pivot as I heard the standard one can sometimes break

So my first question is do you think its ok to machine the current standard nissan flywheel or do you think its necessary to purchase an aftermarket one?

I was thinking of purchasing this Flywheel (Lightweight), EXEDY racing flywheels are made from solid one-piece forged chrome moly steel. They are specifically designed to reduce weight and inertia for improved engine response. Manufacture Part No: Exedy NF01

Please advise.

Also im wanting to purchase a Seal Kit (Gearbox), Genuine Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25-t (RB25DET) for my r33 gtst because i seem to have a bit of oil surrounding the gear box

This kit contains the following genuine Nissan components:

  • Engine Crankshaft Rear Main Seal
  • Gearbox Front Cover Gasket
  • Gearbox Front Main Seal
  • Gearbox Tail Shaft Seal
  • Crank Spigot Bush

So my second question is, Is it possible to install the above components whilst Im installing my new clutch.?

Any comment welcome

Also could a rear main seal cause my clutch to slip this badly?

Cheers

Edited by Bruno P

its not necessary to purchase a new fly wheel, machining the old one is fine. That said, I have the exedy lightweight in my car and it makes a big difference.

Most of those seals can go in while you are doing the clutch, but you'll need to split the gearbox I think (someone else may know more than I) to put some of those seals in which is not a small/quick job.

Rear main would only make your clutch slip if its leaking and getting oil on the clutch itself, which will be easy to tell once you drop the clutch. Good practice to replace that seal anyway while your in there IMO though anyway.

thanks for reply.

Ive done the crazy thing and ordered a lightweight flywheel, I read somewhere that it wont necessarily give you extra hp/kw on the dyno graph, but it lets the engine rev up very quickly and allows the engine to work easier due to the reduced weight spinning around on the back of the crank...hope it works well wih extra heavy duty button clutch. as for the seals yeah i wont purchase them until im absolutely sure they are needed.

its not necessary to purchase a new fly wheel, machining the old one is fine. That said, I have the exedy lightweight in my car and it makes a big difference.

Most of those seals can go in while you are doing the clutch, but you'll need to split the gearbox I think (someone else may know more than I) to put some of those seals in which is not a small/quick job.

Rear main would only make your clutch slip if its leaking and getting oil on the clutch itself, which will be easy to tell once you drop the clutch. Good practice to replace that seal anyway while your in there IMO though anyway.

hi just out of curiosity is the exedy hhhdb clamp load too heavy on the leg? as apposed to the standard skyline pressure plate?

Cheers

i run that clutch with a stock flywheel that was machined

fwiw

Is it a daily driver?

It is safe to say that it will be heavier than standard clutch. (I run a HD clutch and it was a bit of getting used too but not bad)

BTW, you should do your seals at the same time as the box will already be out. The rear main seal is a common-ish one to leak.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...