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Hi I just purchased Clutch Kit, Exedy Extra Extra Heavy Duty Button for an RB25det, Manufacture Part No: Exedy NSK-7056HHHDB with the following specs

  • Diameter: 240.00mm
  • Spline OD: 25.50mm
  • No of Teeth: 24
  • Pressure Plate Type: Push
  • Pressure Plate Clamp Rating: 14,680N / 1,497kgf / 3,300lbf
  • *Power Holding Capability (At Flywheel): 700hp / 523kw

Reason for purchase is my current button clutch slips badly in 3rd gear when car is under load, so I thought I would upgrade to something better.

I have also ordered a Nismo clutch pivot as I heard the standard one can sometimes break

So my first question is do you think its ok to machine the current standard nissan flywheel or do you think its necessary to purchase an aftermarket one?

I was thinking of purchasing this Flywheel (Lightweight), EXEDY racing flywheels are made from solid one-piece forged chrome moly steel. They are specifically designed to reduce weight and inertia for improved engine response. Manufacture Part No: Exedy NF01

Please advise.

Also im wanting to purchase a Seal Kit (Gearbox), Genuine Nissan Skyline R33 GTS25-t (RB25DET) for my r33 gtst because i seem to have a bit of oil surrounding the gear box

This kit contains the following genuine Nissan components:

  • Engine Crankshaft Rear Main Seal
  • Gearbox Front Cover Gasket
  • Gearbox Front Main Seal
  • Gearbox Tail Shaft Seal
  • Crank Spigot Bush

So my second question is, Is it possible to install the above components whilst Im installing my new clutch.?

Any comment welcome

Also could a rear main seal cause my clutch to slip this badly?

Cheers

Edited by Bruno P

its not necessary to purchase a new fly wheel, machining the old one is fine. That said, I have the exedy lightweight in my car and it makes a big difference.

Most of those seals can go in while you are doing the clutch, but you'll need to split the gearbox I think (someone else may know more than I) to put some of those seals in which is not a small/quick job.

Rear main would only make your clutch slip if its leaking and getting oil on the clutch itself, which will be easy to tell once you drop the clutch. Good practice to replace that seal anyway while your in there IMO though anyway.

thanks for reply.

Ive done the crazy thing and ordered a lightweight flywheel, I read somewhere that it wont necessarily give you extra hp/kw on the dyno graph, but it lets the engine rev up very quickly and allows the engine to work easier due to the reduced weight spinning around on the back of the crank...hope it works well wih extra heavy duty button clutch. as for the seals yeah i wont purchase them until im absolutely sure they are needed.

its not necessary to purchase a new fly wheel, machining the old one is fine. That said, I have the exedy lightweight in my car and it makes a big difference.

Most of those seals can go in while you are doing the clutch, but you'll need to split the gearbox I think (someone else may know more than I) to put some of those seals in which is not a small/quick job.

Rear main would only make your clutch slip if its leaking and getting oil on the clutch itself, which will be easy to tell once you drop the clutch. Good practice to replace that seal anyway while your in there IMO though anyway.

hi just out of curiosity is the exedy hhhdb clamp load too heavy on the leg? as apposed to the standard skyline pressure plate?

Cheers

i run that clutch with a stock flywheel that was machined

fwiw

Is it a daily driver?

It is safe to say that it will be heavier than standard clutch. (I run a HD clutch and it was a bit of getting used too but not bad)

BTW, you should do your seals at the same time as the box will already be out. The rear main seal is a common-ish one to leak.

  • 1 month later...

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