Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi,

You said you are interested in buying a Type R. Would you be interested in a late model 1997 Honda Prelude VTI-R ATTS(Active Torque Transfer System)? basically means an active LSD unlike a standard prelude. It has lots of sensible perfromance mods. and is faster than a type R. Makes 108Kw at the wheels!

-1997 Honda Prelude Vti-R ATTS

-90,000Km

-Photo's can be e-mailed if you are interested

The car has the following modifications:

Full factory Honda body kit(including wing on bonnet, very rare)

AEM adjustable cam gears

AEM light weight pulley kit

Neuspeed short shifter

Neuspeed sport springs (1.7" drop)

OBX 4-2-1 stainless steel extractors

Stainless steel dual tip rear muffler (no exhaust drone at all)

Magnecor KV85 ignition leads(made in U.S.A not Aust.)

JUN ultra light weight flywheel (5kg, factory flywheel is 10kg!)

Daikin sports clutch (not brass button)

Falken Azenis ST-115 tyres on the front

The car has been dynoed to tune the adjustable cam gears and makes 108Kw at the wheels. I have the dyno sheet for proof. It was tuned by Croydon Racing in Silverwater, so you’re guaranteed the car has been tuned perfectly. It is an ATTS model so it has an active LSD unlike a standard prelude. This is a fast car for what it is and is very nice to drive.

I have spent about $10,000 on the car(parts & labour) most of these parts where imported by me from the U.S.A and a very expensive. All parts were professionally fitted. The car is in excellent condition.

If you would like to ask any questions or arrange to see the car, e-mail me or you can call me on 0431 064 288.

Thanks,

George.

My e-mail address is [email protected]

What is the condition of the paint like? Was it rubbed back properly when sprayed or just put over the original colour? Have you got access to the paint code in case it needs a repair in the future? Thanks, sorry about all the questions!

awsome skyline....trying to get hold of some of those rims myself. An by the looks of your bodykit its a Bomex front bar, Jun sideskirts, and Trail rear bar....nice matching, looks neat.....but not a full bomex kit.

cant believe it hasn't been snapped up yet. Good luck with the sale...or possible swap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...