Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi,

You said you are interested in buying a Type R. Would you be interested in a late model 1997 Honda Prelude VTI-R ATTS(Active Torque Transfer System)? basically means an active LSD unlike a standard prelude. It has lots of sensible perfromance mods. and is faster than a type R. Makes 108Kw at the wheels!

-1997 Honda Prelude Vti-R ATTS

-90,000Km

-Photo's can be e-mailed if you are interested

The car has the following modifications:

Full factory Honda body kit(including wing on bonnet, very rare)

AEM adjustable cam gears

AEM light weight pulley kit

Neuspeed short shifter

Neuspeed sport springs (1.7" drop)

OBX 4-2-1 stainless steel extractors

Stainless steel dual tip rear muffler (no exhaust drone at all)

Magnecor KV85 ignition leads(made in U.S.A not Aust.)

JUN ultra light weight flywheel (5kg, factory flywheel is 10kg!)

Daikin sports clutch (not brass button)

Falken Azenis ST-115 tyres on the front

The car has been dynoed to tune the adjustable cam gears and makes 108Kw at the wheels. I have the dyno sheet for proof. It was tuned by Croydon Racing in Silverwater, so you’re guaranteed the car has been tuned perfectly. It is an ATTS model so it has an active LSD unlike a standard prelude. This is a fast car for what it is and is very nice to drive.

I have spent about $10,000 on the car(parts & labour) most of these parts where imported by me from the U.S.A and a very expensive. All parts were professionally fitted. The car is in excellent condition.

If you would like to ask any questions or arrange to see the car, e-mail me or you can call me on 0431 064 288.

Thanks,

George.

My e-mail address is [email protected]

What is the condition of the paint like? Was it rubbed back properly when sprayed or just put over the original colour? Have you got access to the paint code in case it needs a repair in the future? Thanks, sorry about all the questions!

awsome skyline....trying to get hold of some of those rims myself. An by the looks of your bodykit its a Bomex front bar, Jun sideskirts, and Trail rear bar....nice matching, looks neat.....but not a full bomex kit.

cant believe it hasn't been snapped up yet. Good luck with the sale...or possible swap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...