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Garrett -7 turbos x2 low kms excellent condition come with acuators reday to bolt on

$1800

Sparco sprint V seats in black x2 as new condition with jdm rails suit R32,33,34 gtst and gtr will fit silvias and 180s also (will trade with s2 seats gtr seats or recaros and cash)

$1500 pair

Rb26 R33 gtr 444cc injectors under 20,000kms use

$250u

Rb26 RWD modifyed sump

$250

Trust copy Rb26 intake setup hot side piping silicone joiners pod filters and turbo ss intakes used

$200

Apexi power intake filters and afm adapters for Rb26

$250

Rb26 stock afm x2 32 gtr

$100

Rb26 stock cast exhaust manifolds x2

$100

Rb26 r32 gtr stock dump pipes x2

$50

Rb26 oil and water feeds for stock turbos

$100 for both setups

R33 gtr stock turbos rebuilt under 20k use on 12 psi x2

$500

Haltech e8 ecu and patch loom suit s14 etc

$1000

Hks series 1 cam gears x2 suit rb motors

$120 pair

Rb 26 r33 gtr stock valve springs and retainers under 20k use

$200

Rb26 r33 gtr stock intercooler good condition

$200

pm post or call 0422646961

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    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
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