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Garrett -7 turbos x2 low kms excellent condition come with acuators reday to bolt on

$1800

Sparco sprint V seats in black x2 as new condition with jdm rails suit R32,33,34 gtst and gtr will fit silvias and 180s also (will trade with s2 seats gtr seats or recaros and cash)

$1500 pair

Rb26 R33 gtr 444cc injectors under 20,000kms use

$250u

Rb26 RWD modifyed sump

$250

Trust copy Rb26 intake setup hot side piping silicone joiners pod filters and turbo ss intakes used

$200

Apexi power intake filters and afm adapters for Rb26

$250

Rb26 stock afm x2 32 gtr

$100

Rb26 stock cast exhaust manifolds x2

$100

Rb26 r32 gtr stock dump pipes x2

$50

Rb26 oil and water feeds for stock turbos

$100 for both setups

R33 gtr stock turbos rebuilt under 20k use on 12 psi x2

$500

Haltech e8 ecu and patch loom suit s14 etc

$1000

Hks series 1 cam gears x2 suit rb motors

$120 pair

Rb 26 r33 gtr stock valve springs and retainers under 20k use

$200

Rb26 r33 gtr stock intercooler good condition

$200

pm post or call 0422646961

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    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
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