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Garrett -7 turbos x2 low kms excellent condition come with acuators reday to bolt on

$1800

Sparco sprint V seats in black x2 as new condition with jdm rails suit R32,33,34 gtst and gtr will fit silvias and 180s also (will trade with s2 seats gtr seats or recaros and cash)

$1500 pair

Rb26 R33 gtr 444cc injectors under 20,000kms use

$250u

Rb26 RWD modifyed sump

$250

Trust copy Rb26 intake setup hot side piping silicone joiners pod filters and turbo ss intakes used

$200

Apexi power intake filters and afm adapters for Rb26

$250

Rb26 stock afm x2 32 gtr

$100

Rb26 stock cast exhaust manifolds x2

$100

Rb26 r32 gtr stock dump pipes x2

$50

Rb26 oil and water feeds for stock turbos

$100 for both setups

R33 gtr stock turbos rebuilt under 20k use on 12 psi x2

$500

Haltech e8 ecu and patch loom suit s14 etc

$1000

Hks series 1 cam gears x2 suit rb motors

$120 pair

Rb 26 r33 gtr stock valve springs and retainers under 20k use

$200

Rb26 r33 gtr stock intercooler good condition

$200

pm post or call 0422646961

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    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
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