Jump to content
SAU Community

Sa: S3 Bluebird Trx With Ca18De + Other Goodieshey Everyone, I Have For Sale My Project Bluebird Trx. Its A Factory 5 Speed Manual, Fitted With A Ca18


Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, i have for sale my project Bluebird TRX. Its a factory 5 speed manual, fitted with a CA18DE engine. I did the entire engine conversion along with my mate who half owns it. It is a great little car and handles quite well.

Really gets up and moving with the CA18. Very good project car for someone wanting to get into drifting or racing. Or it makes a very good little daily. Its only done 100km since being registered and fully serviced. The car IS P plate friendly and legal as it is a non turbo-charged engine.

Make/Model: S3 Nissan Bluebird TRX

Year: 1985

Kilometers: 216,xxx on Chassis, 86,xxx on Engine

Transmission type: 5 Speed Factory manual

Engine: S13 180SX/Silvia CA18DE

Colour: White

Modifications:

Engine/drivetrain:

86,xxx kmS13 180SX/Silvia CA18DE

Stainless Extractors

Factory exhaust from the resonator back – Super super quiet!

K&N Pod filter

Lightened flywheel

Heavy duty clutch

R31 Skyline Wagon fuel tank and pump

Suspension/Brakes:

Pedders front shocks

Lowered MR30 Skyline front springs – Quite stiff

Monroe Rear Shocks

Lowered Pedders rear springs

R31 Skyline Front Sway bar

R31 Skyline Front lower control arms

R31 Skyline Front discs and calipers

Factory disc brakes on the rear

Working hand brake

Roadworthy Certificate: N/A

Registered: Yes, 3 months

Accident History: None that i know of or i could find

Asking Price: 2,500 ONO

Location: Glandore, SA

Contact Details: Daniel - PM or 0400 719 226 - Dont call text late at night!

Other Comments:

Interior:

Very clean interior for its age, a few burns etc in the carpet, some of the plastics are starting to crack/fray but overall its clean inside. Dash is in very good condition.

All electrics work

WORKING Air conditioning

Short shifter

200W Alpine CD player

5” Kenwood front speakers

Pioneer 6x9’s

Custom black carpeted MDF parcel shelf

Sports steering wheel and boss kit

Exterior

Unfortunately its missing the front air dam.

Body is quite straight, has a few dents being an old car

Paint work is ok, a little average in areas. Unfortunately it was fitted with gas at some point, and the gas pillar is in the rear quarter panel.

Factory TRX Wheels + TRX spare alloy wheel

All headlights, indicators, brake lights etc work. White LED parkers

It has a large battery, it has just had the following serviced; Engine oil, oil filter,spark plugs, brake fluid, radiator hoses, coolant, thermostat, New timing belt and gearbox oil.

Large battery fitted.

To get the most out of its performance, a more free flowing exhaust and a 4.11:1 diff could be fitted and it will be quite the little rocket.

SERIOUS BUYERS ONLY PLEASE! I dont have the time for tyre kickers.

P5250643.jpg

P5250645.jpg

P5250649.jpg

P5250650.jpg

P5250651.jpg

P5250652.jpg

P5250653.jpg

P5250654.jpg

P5250656.jpg

P5250657.jpg

P5250658.jpg

P5250659.jpg

P5250660.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

hey mate is it a genuine trx....lsd diff? power steer?

PM sent.

Yes it IS a genuine TRX, however the Australian built bluebirds were never fitted with an LSD or power steering..

Bump everyone, someone buy me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...