Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

found out that Nismo use Motul 300 15W/50 synth - $75 for 4L from autobarn

anybody running this?

got recommended to use Omega 15W/55 - but that was by a japanese D1 driver and mechanic - and the stuff isnt available here, and aparently its bloody expensive even in Japan

So should i be doing an oil flush every oil change? I use castrol formula R 5-30w and change every 5k with filter.

I have heard that the Castrol R is reasonable and a big improvement on previous oils.

As for the flush, it should be done every so often, you can usually tell when you need to do a flush.

If you change your oil and filter after letting it almost completely drain (there will obviously be some remnants in the oil system) and you put in new oil and less than 100kms and you pull the dipstick and its dirty...then you need to flush.

I have also found Castrol oils to be crap especially in relation to turbo engines...maybe its the running through the turbo that breaks them down, but on NA cars I have never had a problem.

I now run Motul 4100 turbolight and previously ALWAYS ran Mobil 1, but still needed to flush the system twice after 15,000. I think I must have just got a bad batch of mobil 1...but I will now stick to the motul, always used it in my bikes so I have a basis to go by, and after 2,000km it is still nice and clean...

flush is not needed every oil change...just remember to drain the oil while it is still reasonably hot, it will drain much quicker taking more rubbish with it also will drain more completely.

I don't like Castrol for a turbo either,, Have been using Shell Ultra full synthetic. Thinking about changing to Motul

Well guys i have used shell ultra fully synthetic in my 32 gtst when i had it and in my 33gtst

when i had that and now i have a 33gtr v-spec and still use the shell ultra and its kept

my engines running great. Alwasy changed it every 4-5000km with a new filter.One thing

i have noticed with the shell ultra is that even when its time to do the oil change,the shell

still looks very clean.I have a friend that runs the shell ultra in his porche gt3 and he said him and his other porche mates in there club only use the shell ultra.I know that porche and ferrari recomend shell.Anyway that works for me.

Enrico You will be able to change no worrys at all.A good thing to do when changing oils is change it once with the new oil and filter, then do another change again at about 1000km, then just about all of the old stuff will be gone. One other thing is, that a mate of mine was

running castrol in his 33gtst and every 5000km when he changed it, the oil was black and had no body left in it.When he changed to the shell ultra ,i've seen the oil that was dumped out at 5000km this time and it was still so clean. HE WAS SOLD!!!!!!!!!

Speaking of oil filters, I noticed this product at 'Jamboree' on Saturday....

http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/filtermag.htm

I guess its pretty logical but comes at a price (meaning it could actually make a difference, or they are just cashing in on something that hasn't been done before).

Hi Guy's

If you change your oil often you shouldn't need to flush the engine.

I work as a sales rep for one of those oil companys you have mentioned and let me tell you that 5000kms in a road car on any good synthetic oil is nothing. If you have to flush your engine after 5000kms somthing is wrong.

We supply many truck fleets that run up around 70000kms between oil changes, and their dirty diesels, even these guys dont flush their engines between drains.

ASHLY

Hi Guy's

If you change your oil often you shouldn't need to flush the engine.

I work as a sales rep for one of those oil companys you have mentioned and let me tell you that 5000kms in a road car on any good synthetic oil is nothing. If you have to flush your engine after 5000kms somthing is wrong.  

We supply many truck fleets that run up around 70000kms between oil changes, and their dirty diesels, even these guys dont flush their engines between drains.

ASHLY

The thing is, my car did 80 000km with god knows what oil and probably without any flushing. So now that it's all clean, I won't be flushing it for quite some time, if ever again. Good quality oil should contain enough detergents to keep the insides clean and I plan on using just those detergents from now on to keep it clean until I see something wrong.

For anyone that thinks that just because an oil is "cleaner" after an oil change, you should probably revise that thought. Oil is supposed to turn black as it absorbs soot. If the oil stays clean, that means the soot is going elsewhere. And I don't remember the last time Ferrari produced a turbo car. Why would you go off a recommendation for a non-turbo car for a turbo Skyline?

Also, I have never read a non-biased review which said that Shell Helix was anything other than an average oil. Perhaps a bit above average and almost certainly better than Castrol, but really nothing special compared to the better synths. Don't judge the oil quality by its colour after changing, is all I'm saying.

Forget all the marketing hype and just do some research outside the advertising. I didn't buy the Fuchs oil because of marketing or advertising, I bought it because I heard from a few sources that it was a good quality oil which many other companies buy their synthetic base from, and that was good enough for me. If it turns out to be dodgy then I'll have to research more and find out which companies use Fuchs, and also rule them out. But I'm pretty confident that it's above average in quality.

There are several reviews on the web about oil. Probably the most common comparison is comparing Amsoil to Mobil 1, because Mobil 1 is meant to be the premium synthetic oil (and almost the same as Fuchs synth). Everyone should probably be running Amsoil if they could afford it, but all of the comparisons are slightly biased in favour of Amsoil. Mobil even refute some of the tests that Amsoil use.

I personally think there is not that much of a difference between Mobil and Amsoil after reading up on both of them, provided you do regular changes and don't subject your engine to extreme temperatures. I'd rather save a few bucks between changes and be able to just pick a new bottle from any spares shop, than have to send away for it every time. In the long run I doubt I'll see any difference.

well, it makes sense to flush it after 80000 kms on the same oil.

i dont want to get involved in a comparison between different oil companys (for obvious reasons). But i can get technical or general information on different Fuchs lubricants if you want.

ASHLY

JimX

I realize that oil is spose to get black but there is a difference to oil getting dark to an oil that looks filthy black.The other thing was i wasn't saying that shell ultra was the best of the best,all i was saying is that the shell ultra has kept my cars very clean.The whole reason i have stayed with the shell ultra is that a couple of years ago when my r32 motor was stripped to do some mods the inside of the motor was very clean.So i kept useing it.

One other thing is i know Ferrari dont run turbos but if they are running it in a $200000 plus car it cant be to bad.Also i have mates running it in there turbo porche and it does fine for them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...