Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

From what I've played with recently (a mates MFD), if your screen has red halo, patches etc then the LCD itself is burned/stuffed.

I did the usual polarised film replacement and new backlight and the red defects wacky colour are still there. Even turning the film around because I thought it was backwards didn't improve it.

post-12712-0-35663000-1375536676_thumb.jpg

I f I have my way then the screens for these will be universal shortly. I am modding one for another application and using an ENTIRELY different screen to do so.

  • 2 weeks later...

From what I've played with recently (a mates MFD), if your screen has red halo, patches etc then the LCD itself is burned/stuffed.

I did the usual polarised film replacement and new backlight and the red defects wacky colour are still there. Even turning the film around because I thought it was backwards didn't improve it.

attachicon.gifMFD screen colour burn.jpg

just wondering mate, is that exactly the same as yours looked before you replaced the film? or was worst, like as bad as mine? (photos on the previous page) my film has arrived, was going to attempt it this weekend.

  • 5 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

thought id update. finally got around to giving this ago. with all the advice on here. only took 1.5 hours, start to finish. unfortunately the film does nothing for the red/orange patch halo. was worth a try though.

Other than jdm auto link, is there anywhere else the screen can be bought?

Screen is available here:

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale/wholesale-sharp-lq6bw506.html

That's if you have the sharp unit.

Bear in mind that is JUST the screen. No input circuits.

Screen is available here:

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale/wholesale-sharp-lq6bw506.html

That's if you have the sharp unit.

Bear in mind that is JUST the screen. No input circuits.

Thanks! alot cheaper than the $480 from autolink. yeh, mine car is an early 99 model, so im lead to believe that is the sharp? (correct me if im wrong?)

2 questions, whats involved with putting it in? im not to good with electrics, but if its just unplug, and replug, screw and unscrew i should be right hahah

And wich one do i need, they all have the same model number, but different description on the link.

cheers in advance

  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE. got the screen off alibaba.com for $95 posted. (thats including an extra $6 for express postage). there where some sellers selling even cheaper lol. but didn't wanna push my luck with the tight assness. was peice of cake to put in, plug and play as i expected. works perfect.

Either way, i still have the lcd film if anybody in PERTH wants it they can have it for free. ive only cut out one attemp (didn't work for the orange patch). so theres atleast another 5 attemps left as i bought the big one. (seems a waste to throw it out)

So who did you use?

I need a screen as well. Last time I tried to buy one for a customer I got screwed over.

Link would be handy.

cheers for the link btw, would have never thought alibaba.com. this is the actual product/seller i chose.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-new-SHARP-SCREEN-LQ6BW506-LCD-MODULES-FOR-SUBARU-CAR-DVD-AUDIO-SYSTEMS-DISPLAY/1258839026.html

$95 posted express (bought on Thursday, came the following Thursday)

  • AAHH33 can i get some of your lcd films? dont mind to share the cost with you, im based in perth

its all good man. if you want to come pick it up. you can have it. i dont need it. im NOR btw

Been using various suppliers from there for years.

Wasn't too fussed about giving away the LCD suppliers as its not really my market.

Thanks for the link. Just ordered one.

ok, i noticed this happening from time to time before i replaced the screen, and hoped replacing the screen would fix it. but from time to time the mfd is just a blank white screen.

and since i have replaced the screen it is frustrating me now. for example, out of the last 5 drives in the car, 2 out of the 5 times the screen has just been blank white. goes white, then i turn the car off and on again, and its back to normal/

Anybody know what is causing this?

Box it up with your old screen and send it across. I had one do this before and sorted it. I have the schematics for the MFD & the display itself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
    • I get you, we’ll see I’m aiming for 200ish kw now and hopefully 300rwkw down the line after some upgrades maybe like headstuds, E85 flex fuel etc  so trying to make it final for that now, I can get a GTT airbox for $280 so it’s not too bad but not sure if there’s better ways to spend that money. I seen online they say pod filter which isn’t enclosed isn’t good especially for a plus T.      hard to say what to do
    • Meh. How much power can you make from a +T anyway? I wouldn't have though it would be enough to challenge the airbox. It's not as if it's tiny compared with the turbo one. As to putting a pod in a stock airbox .... it's not the filter element that would be restrictive. It would be the air inlet to the box that would be the narrow point, which you could open up regardless of what element was inside. On my R32 I opened up the sort of triangular opening in the bottom front corner of the box, deformed (heated, moulded) some 4" stormwater pipe to fit to that opening and punched a 4" hole down through the inner guard to the spot where the stock intercooler used to be. This was purely in the search for a cold intake, but you could do something similar if you need to open up the inlet side of it. The AFM tube size is the same for both NA and turbo, so the outlet from the airbox is same same anyway. If you're going to do the right thing, then an aftermarket ECU won't care about the AFM (ie, you can get rid of it). But even if it was still there, people pull >300rwkW through them all day, and I suspect you won't be going there.
    • R34 RB25de Neo by the way ^ 
×
×
  • Create New...