Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Recently am in need of some new tires, pretty standard size, 235/40/R17. I got a quote from a dealer in Blackwood, for some Toyo Proxes 4's, as I am wanting to give these a go having just come off of a set of Dunlop LM703's. Has anyone driven the Proxes 4's? What did you think of them? Also, where is the best place to get these in Adelaide. I got quoted $230 each.

Cheers guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369203-toyo-proxes-4/
Share on other sites

No actually, I didn't. I believe they were on special or something, and thought it was not too bad. I haven't checked anywhere else out and was not sure if it was a good price or not. Do most tire shops offer discount for club members? Or are there specific dealers for SAUSA members?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369203-toyo-proxes-4/#findComment-5885375
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Recently am in need of some new tires, pretty standard size, 235/40/R17. I got a quote from a dealer in Blackwood, for some Toyo Proxes 4's, as I am wanting to give these a go having just come off of a set of Dunlop LM703's. Has anyone driven the Proxes 4's? What did you think of them? Also, where is the best place to get these in Adelaide. I got quoted $230 each.

Cheers guys!

for that price, I'd recommend upgrading to the T1R Proxes ... they're around $250 a corner (at least for the 225x50/r16) so I'd imagine it'd be not much more than what you'd already be paying for the 4's

Been running T1R's for the last 4 years and they are a brilliant road compound. I get 2 years out of mine before camber wear is an issue.

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369203-toyo-proxes-4/#findComment-5892552
Share on other sites

t1rs are just a normal road tyre, proxes 4s are higher, then r1r higher again before you go an r compound.

hrm. always thought the p4s were cheaper due to being a lesser compound.

the review comparisons seemed to favour the t1r's however, especially in the wet

-D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369203-toyo-proxes-4/#findComment-5892613
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I ran the proxes4 on the rear of my old r32 rb30det running a shade over 300rwkw. Hooked up second relatively well and third damn well. 0-100 was an effortless 4secs flat.

Tried quite a few different tyres sizes etc. Settled on the standard 225/50/16's over a set of decent 255 18's that were like sliding on ice in comparison.

IMO great tyre, great wear, nice centered feel but with a slightly soft sidewall - which is great for straight line though. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/369203-toyo-proxes-4/#findComment-5946544
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
    • A wise man once told me, "Anything you enjoyed wasting was not wasted".
×
×
  • Create New...