Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SPACERS...........

5x114.3

25mm $75

Wrecking R33 Skyline PARTs

Rear Calipers $80 Firm

Steering Rack $40

Stock Turbo

minimal shaft play

no actuator $250 Firm

Rb25det done 120xxx

And has had

NO modifications

( not even pod filter ) $1680 NEG

Rb25det Auto gearbox

Drove fine $300 NEG

R33 Tail lights

(tiny chip where indicator is) $70 PAIR comes with center garish

White Rear bar ( STD )

ill throw reo bar in $70

R33 white s2 Wing+boot $50 FOR BOTH!!

R33 Front Fenders $65 for left

Left one has a small paint $75 for right

chip where headlight is $120 for both

drivers side door skine

( GOOD NICK s2) $40

boot carpet $20

Rear seats $50

Oem Clutch ( looks like there

is alot left ) $80

Turbo Smart Bov Adapter (alloy) $18

s1 Centre Grill $18

S14 S2 PARTS

Hand Brake Set up

Lever plus cables $90

Brake booster and master

cylinder $90

Right hand door excluding

switch has some paint fade $90

Drivers door switch $35

S2 boot + wing

paint has faded $45

Auto Diff ( will fit man )

only done 130xxx minimel play $110

glove box ( good nick ) $30

Good nick Stock AFM $40

Ignition pack $40

Washer bottle ( no cracks ) $30

Mirrors Left And Right

tiny bit of paint fade

Black base red mirror $45 per side

S14 FULL rad support $60 CHEAP!!!!!!!

s13/180sx

Drivers Seat in ok condition(sr)$25

180sx Stock Rear bar (black) $25

180sx Stock ca front bar( Grey ) $25

Thats all i can think of right now

i have alot of photos so if you want to ask any questions or see anything just ask

[email protected]

0430106414

located in s.e suburbs Melb

willing to do swaps for r32 Gtr passenger / rear seats

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...